Skin of the matter: Experts highlight a shift in the approach towards skin health among Indians

"I aim to take care of my skin rather than go after a perfect skin. The skin is going to look is the way it is - we are going to have open pores, acne and texture (issues) - and we are going to take care of it. I do not have unattainable beauty standards in my mind. So, yes, my approach towards skincare has changed for good," says Prableen Kaur, beauty and fashion digital creator, whose Instagram page does not just have skincare and beauty tips, but also delves into separating the real from the make-up, and learning to accept one's skin in its original form.

The Covid-19 pandemic has led people to prioritise personal healthcare, which has fostered a growing interest in understanding more about skin health too. Though an emerging phenomenon even prior to the pandemic, the improved access to social media content has further boosted the culture of self-acceptance, normalising skin problems, and further working towards a healthy skin, rather than looking for quick-fixes for instant results.

From using household methods such as applying turmeric, gram flour, multani mitti, neem paste and tomato extract to treat pimple bursts or blemishes, Indians are gradually accepting a multi-step daily routine for a healthy skin. The focus on protecting the skin from its core and nourishing it from inside has encouraged more discussions around skin-barrier protection, exfoliation, sun-protection, usage of essence-based serums, toners and nourishers among others.

According to the Indian Skin Care Market Report 2021, the market for skincare products in the country is estimated to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 8.22 percent during 2021-2025. In 2020, face care products accounted for 57.22 per cent of the total revenue from skincare products. Of these, Hindustan Unilever Limited, the Himalaya Drug Company, Emami Limited and Nivea India Private Limited emerged to be some of the key players in the market.

Experts suggest the shift in the approach is largely encouraged by lifestyle, skincare and beauty content creators on social media, especially Instagram influencers, many of who are expert dermatologists too. "There is a definite shift in people's perception of their own skin. The uncertainty and turmoil of the last two years has had people look at most things from a holistic, health-forward perspective, rather than viewing skincare as a tool to enhance beauty," says dermatologist and cosmetologist Dr Aparna Santhanam.

Opting for a multi-step routine

With growing concern and access to educational content, people are gradually expanding their research to choose from a gamut of skincare brands and products. The shift in routine from twice-a-day facewash usage to a multi-step one, using a toner, nourisher and a sunscreen with a higher SPF level, is becoming increasingly common.

Dr Santhanam says, "We are still at a stage where people are getting accustomed to adopting a regular skincare regime. The market caters to a wide range of audiences with different preferences. There is a section of beauty-conscious consumers looking for K beauty, probiotics and customised skincare, but at the same time there is also an acceptance across the board for regular skincare."

In addition to following a routine, as Santhanam points out, the Korean skincare, which aims at achieving glass-skin results, has largely driven the interest in sheet masks, under-eye creams, day and night creams, double cleansing and essences among Indians. According to data by the Korean Cultural Centre India in Delhi, sales of K-beauty products from Pilgrim, a local beauty product company, doubled in 2021 compared to 2020, and about 60 per cent of total sales can be credited to those in the 25-35 age group. This is in addition to the focus on natural ingredients such as coconut-based skin oils and aloe vera to nourish the skin from within.

Prableen, who closely follows K-skincare, stresses on skin hydration and exfoliation. As someone who has understood what works for her skin better, she never misses out on the basic steps of using a cleanser, toner and essences with glycolic acid, a nycamite serum paired up with hydronic acid, a moisturiser and a sunscreen. This is topped by weekly face packs or chemical peels best suited for her skin type.

"There have been too many trends in the skincare segment, but using a sheet mask once a week for hydrated skin or glass skin and skincare routine using hydraulic acid are the new trends in the Indian market," says Prableen.

Emphasis on product ingredients

In addition to knowing one's skin better, people are also more curious about the products they add to their daily skin health routine. From organic ingredients, specific chemical formulations and probiotics, there is a growing range of brands focused on catering to customers who are ready to move beyond home-based remedies. Prableen, whose job is to test and review products, says she tries to stay away from highly concentrated products, and includes Alpha-Hydroxy and Beta-Hydroxy Acids in her skincare routine. She also stresses on using a salicylic-acid based cleanser and serum.

According to Dr Santhanam, ingredient knowledge is still low among consumers, but scientifically proven natural ingredients, such as retinoids and niacinamide, are gaining much traction. She explains, "For instance, when I tell my patients that coconut-based skin oils penetrate deep into the skin within an hour of application, help with anti-microbial action (which is helpful with the increased concern over microbial protection post Covid), strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce trans-epidermal water loss, there's more willingness to adopt such products. Skincare products are interestingly poised for the next leap and, as always, will be hybrid and varied in India."

Dr Kiran Godse, dermatologist and cosmetologist at Hiranandani Hospital, Mumbai, adds that the use of formulations with healthy, skin-friendly ingredients like niacinamide essences, ceramide nourishers and Vitamic C products have been on the rise. "Formulations with probiotics (with Lactobacillus Ferment extract/filtrate) are also being used for skin barrier health," he says.

A more informed consumer

With the economic, social and lifestyle changes brought in by the lockdown, individuals closely witnessed the ways in which their body reacted to the physical and mental strain caused by environmental triggers. According to the market research company Mintel India's survey, Indian Consumer Trends 2022, stress (51%), lack of sleep (50%) and unhealthy diet (47%) emerged as major contributors to skin problems.

Dr Godse is of the view that while people are better aware about the impact of physical and mental wellbeing on their skin, there's still a need for more awareness. The physical impacts include aggravated acne and skin irritation caused by harsh weather changes, excessive pollution, sweat and contact with dust, while mental conditions like depression and anxiety episodes can also lead to constant acne bursts followed by scars. Dr Santhanam has a word of caution though on equipping oneself with information on the skin and its complex behavioural patterns only through the internet or beauty influencers.

"There is a need for people to recognise that dermatologists are trained for years on the science of skin. One needs to go for biannual dermatological check-up, just as one does with a dentist. Dermatologists must also step up to educate individuals on the physical and psychological aspects of skin conditions," says Dr Santhanam.

With greater focus on skin health, people are not hesitant to approach a dermatologist and get a well-curated personalised skincare routine. This also suggests that the willingness to spend on skin health is on the rise.

Dr Santhanam says, "The recognition of science and scientific care provided by dermatologists is gaining momentum of late. The realisation that one needs to invest in skin health, starting with expert advice, will hopefully only grow."