Matunga’s hidden gem: Parsi cafe weaves tales of history, cinema and Irani flavours

Nestled within the heart of Matunga, Koolar & Co stands as a living testimony of history. The cafe's deep-rooted bond with the silver screen, the essence of Parsi culinary heritage, and the narrative of Irani migration are interwoven seamlessly, embodying a rich and captivating heritage

Updated On: 2023-08-28 08:14 AM IST

Compiled by : Ainie Rizvi

Koolar & Co. in Matunga (East) is an Irani restaurant run by Amir Koolar and his brother Ali. File/Pic

At the turn of the 20th century, an immigrant from Yazd, Iran - Mamush Koolar, migrated to Mumbai penniless and with hopes of leaving his imprint on the city. Little did he know that nearly a century later, his legacy would become one of the city's grandest cultural landmarks

This unique cafe holds the distinction of being the sole eatery offering authentic Parsi food items within the vicinity of Dadar, Sion, Matunga, and neighbouring areas

Amir Khaon Koolarzade who runs the cafe with his brother, Ali. "We don't compromise on the food. Butter will never be substituted with margarine, and a plate of kheema will always pack a kilo of meat in it," says 52-year-old Amir, proudly. "The food we serve is as authentic Parsi food as you will ever find. Even our cooks have been around for several decades"

Amir asserts that the cafe's menu retains its aspiration to feed the urban middle class with nourishment. This mission is not far from reality – a single encounter with their protein-rich offerings serves as an affirmation. Take, for instance, the Wrestler Omelette, aptly named and brimming with the goodness of five eggs. It's an endorsement cherished by some of the city's finest bodybuilders, including fitness luminary Kaizaad Kapadia

Amir recalls, "There was a phase when our tea gained such renown that rivals propagated a baseless rumor of us adding eggs to our milk. Scientifically impossible, as eggs curdle milk. Despite this absurd notion lingering for a while, it eventually dissipated, allowing us to persevere"

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