Why more Mumbai restaurants are exploring agave spirits beyond tequila in their cocktails

Just as people are rediscovering their love for premium rum and gin in India, there are others who are also indulging in cocktails made with agave-based spirits that are slowly creeping into many cocktail menus in the country. They may not be many but definitely a few that are looking to appeal to the palate of the evolved drinker in the country. It is making bartenders and mixologists sit up and take notice and even experiment with flavours.

Being in the thick of things, Shelton Fernandes, beverage head, Pass Code Hospitality, notes, "The interest in agave has been growing steadily over the years. Bartenders and mixologists continuously innovate by creating new and exciting cocktails that showcase the unique flavours of agave and these creative concoctions have been attracting curious consumers." The sheer versatility, according to him, makes people like him behind the bar to want to make concoctions. He says one can not only make spicy cocktails such as a Picante, or spirit-forward cocktails like an Old Fashioned with a reposado, but also sour and fruity ones.

Now, it is not like these can be done with other spirits but with the rapid interest, this also piques the interest of the drinker on the bar stool, when he looks at the menu. The fact that there are different variants of agave spirits available in the market in the recent past, which is also making people want to experiment with the spirit beyond the tequila, which comes from the same family, as well as traditional drunk spirits like whiskey and vodka. Mohit Gadgil, restaurant and beverage manager, JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar, explains, "While featuring agave in beverage menus was once uncommon, perceptions have shifted, and agave is now being chosen over tequila by consumers." Gadgil adds that tequila has always been known to be consumed as shots and that is why it has become more commercialised, while agave maintains its artisanal essence, which appeals to discerning enthusiasts.

For the longest time, tequila has been the most popular form of the agave plant to be converted into a spirit. Finding its origins in Mexico, the plant has more than one type of agave - the most popular being blue Weber agave, which is used to make tequila. Using a method of cooking, crushing, fermenting and distilling, they are converted into spirits. Interestingly, restaurants and bars in India seem to be moving beyond tequila with mezcal and other agave spirits that are being used in cocktails in different ways, and even as by-products as syrup or nectar. In fact, there are some who have even designed a whole menu around it, and even constructed an agave bar to cater to the rising demand in drinkers wanting to experiment with agave beyond tequila.

But what really is the uniqueness of agave spirits as compared to its close cousin tequila? Fernandes, who emphasises on its unique flavour profile, sheds light, "The combination of agave's unique characteristics, production processes, and regional influences makes these spirits stand out in the world of distillation. Moreover, agave spirit is versatile and can paired with any flavour be it spicy, sour, umami, fruity, floral while also being spirit-forward." On the other hand, he says that tequila has variations in flavour due to additives and congeners, which is not the case with agave spirits, which are normally without additives; the variant and ageing period even makes it versatile, unique, and complex compared to other spirits.

Using agave in cocktails
At the five-star property, Gadgil says they make 'Ranch Water', which is a blend of Agave and sparkling water. "The inclusion of agave introduces a complex caramel aroma to the drink. This cocktail achieves exceptional balance due to agave's remarkable versatility, lending a smooth texture to the palate and imparting robust vanilla flavours."

On the other hand, Fernandes was inspired by its very versatility and interest to create cocktails for the menu at Saz American Brasserie & Saz Café in Mumbai. So, currently at the BKC outlet, they have three cocktails on the menu using agave spirits like the COA & Co., which is a fruity highball with pickled plum; the Paloma di Maya, on the other hand, is a spicy refreshing cocktail with grapefruit, cucumber and togarshi, and last but not the least, the Poker Face is a sour and potent cocktail with parmesan-infused agave, aperol, and Maraschino liqueur -- giving people a variety of different flavours to experiment with without confusing them.

Apart from sweet, smoky and citrusy flavours, Kaustubh Sawardekar, mixologist at Millo says, "The agave spirit flavour profile ranges from sweet potatoes and roasted pepper to herbs and smoky minerals and often there is a peppery finish." At the city-restaurant, they experiment with agave spirits in cocktails such as Xalapa and First Drop. While the first one has tangy and spicy flavours, the other has sweet and herbaceous flavours -- and in both, agave is the star ingredient.

Sawardekar attributes its popularity growing over the years due to the fact that the spirit is not bound by rules and regulations while making it. It means the distiller can work their magic during production and distillation, before it comes out in the market, and one of the most recent entrants has been Maya Pistola, according to him. While Fernandes says the absence of additives is what makes it unique, Sawardekar reminds that the uniqueness of the varieties of the agave plants, their distillation method as well as the region they come from, all influence the flavour and that is what makes the spirit unique compared to any other spirit, and probably the need for bartenders as well as people to experiment with it.

A touch of Mezcal
The Penthouse in the St Regis Mumbai also has a handpicked selection of two agave-spirit cocktails. While the first one is called ‘Dark Secrets' at Koi Bar, the other is a delicious Rum-Raisin-infused Old Fashioned. Domenico Iannone, general manager, explains, "The first one has dark chocolate-infused Tequila, Mezcal and aromatic bitters, which has an initial explosion of chocolate sweetness, followed by the distinctive tequila flavour. The combination is balanced, smooth, and creamy in texture and leaves a lingering chocolate with the Tequila flavour that lasts effortlessly even after the drink is finished."

Meanwhile, the second cocktail has agave syrup and aromatic bitters - where the agave helps balance the sweetness with its unique flavour and keeps the drink neutral without making it too sweet because the consistency of agave is excellent, he adds. Their inclusion on the menu was prompted by the increased level of consumer requests for agave-based spirits, who Iannone believes are progressively aware of the history of the spirit and its culture. While he has witnessed the interest and popularity worldwide, the fact that it has reached Mumbai, makes it interesting to see how the innovation in beverages is taking over by pushing the traditional boundaries in cocktails.

It is not only Iannone but also Anurag Godbole, the wine Sommelier and bar manager at recently opened city restaurant Nksha that uses mezcal. He explains, "We use agave in a different mezcal form, which is similar to tequila but with more smoky and robust flavour and with more of character and strength. So, we tried our hands on using mezcal in our cocktail called ‘Churchgate'." Since mezcal is the most honest form of agave, Godbole says they believe showing keeping the agave integrity in the drink. It is a blend of agave which is roasted before fermenting, adding that unique smoky and robust flavour to the drink. We use el salto and fandango mezcal," he adds. The potent mixture of Churchgate uses Eli salto mezcal with Bhavnagari chillies, cardamom, citrus and fizz to make a fresh drink with a chilli kick. He shares, "While the soothing finish comes from cardamom, the fizz makes it light and bubbly. Using mezcal gives it the smoky flavour and blends very well with sweet and hot Bhavnagari chillies."

At Hitchki, beverage manager Cedrik Rodrigues says the brulee characteristic made them try few cocktails with agave and the result was outstanding giving them the likes of Jaadu Hai Nasha Hai, Paloma, Mezcal, Diablo and Mezcal Old Fashioned. While they use 100 per cent Agave Tequila in their cocktail 'Jaadu Hai Nasha Hai', they also use agave syrup, apart from the orange juice and Japanese Butterfly Pea Flower, because it adds to the unique flavour.

Taking agave to the next level
While agave is popularly used as a spirit, just like Rodrigues, Chef Shailendra at Santé Spa Cuisine takes it a step further with the Roman Holiday cocktail on their menu. He explains, "It mixes agave and Jägermeister in a delightful herby concoction and the flavours are quite well-balanced with herby and earthy notes which are well balanced with the use of agave nectar." The agave nectar, he says, is basically a substitute to sugar while making cocktails. "It comes with a low -glycaemic index, so it is a healthier alternative to use than sugar or honey. The fruity aftertaste is what make me go for agave than sugar syrup and a certain citrusy earthiness that lingers onto your palate after your sips makes it a perfect ingredient," he adds, while highlighting how its rustic boldness in flavour compared to tequila makes it unique.

As bartenders and mixologists in Mumbai have used agave as a spirit and nectar in a limited number of cocktails, Dome at InterContinental Marine Drive has recently introduced an exclusive Agave menu. In fact, Kushkant Tripathi, director of food and beverage, says the La Tomatina, Naranja, Mariachi and Oaxaca old fashioned are some of our bestsellers. Apart from its versatile flavour profile, he says agave's influence on the flavour of a cocktail is remarkable. Tripathi explains, "Its natural sweetness and earthy undertones create a harmonious blend that enhances the overall taste experience. It adds depth and complexity, making each sip a delight."

While others believe most of the drinkers opting for the agave cocktails are well-travelled consumers, Tripathi has seen otherwise. "Gen Zs are becoming more adventurous with their drink choices and are seeking out unique and flavourful experiences, which agave spirits provide. It's an exciting trend that shows no signs of slowing down."

So, when Tarun Sibal, co-founder of The Barfly in Goa, isn't limiting agave to a handful of cocktails, we understand why. He believes there is so much more to explore with the spirit and that is what has inspired him to create a dedicated Agave bar. "We wanted two bars from the design stage itself. Two bars that were distinctive and different from each other. For us, it was an easy decision as we knew that tequila/Mezcal is going to be the next gin in India."

In fact, Sibal says it was the gin bars mushrooming in India that supported their thought process of having a bar dedicated to a single category. "The shift from tequila to be done as a shot to sipping tequila is in the forefront now. Globally, the success of Mezcalaria (bars dedicate to Mezcal) has also put the category at the top," he adds. The fact that there is more intrigue among drinkers as they are looking at tequila and mezcal to be their first choice when drinking cocktails means that the bar has explored different flavours with a variety of cocktails and is quick to note that the spirit can't be generalised at all.

He explains, "The El Gusano uses Mezcal with a hint of bourbon, watermelon and soy. The Mezcal's herbaceous notes act perfectly with the soy and watermelon. On the other hand, The Caprese is a take on the classic salad made with Patron Reposado infused with basil, tomato water and burrata. The home grown Pistola is used for Manzana where apple and blue cheese make a perfect harmony with the local agave spirit."

Making agave known
Being one of the few producers of agave spirits in India and thus becoming a homegrown brand, Pistola Agave was started by Rakshay Dhariwal, who is the founder & MD of Passcode Hospitality in 2020, after they saw a lack of 100 per cent agave spirit in the alcohol market in India. Since then, he has seen the consumption as a spirit and cocktail at the restaurants under their own brand increased by 23 per cent year-on-year, which in itself seems like a considerable increase considering how the Covid-19 pandemic kept people indoors and out of restaurants, and the rise in the number of people experimenting with homegrown gin and rum brands today.

Interestingly, Pistola Agave unlike others is made in India in the Deccan Plateau and uses Agave Americana. He further explains, "It firstly takes around 11-13 years to grow the Agave Americana plant that we use to make Pistola. Post our manufacturing process, there is the maturation process which can take anywhere from 2 months to 36 months, so the overall process to make Pistola is around 14 to 15 years. There is a very limited supply of high-quality agave plants as well, and the prices of 100 per cent agave spirits have been skyrocketing for the past five years." The notes are caramel, honey, maple, smoke, pepper and minerality are the notes that are derived from Agave, which adds sweetness and earthiness to the spirit, which is why the best way to get started is by having it neat or on the rocks.