Celebrating with potato chops: Know about Mumbai Catholic community's lesser-known Christmas delicacy

Long before Marian D'costa became a home chef in Mumbai, she fell in love with Potato Chops, among several other Goan delicacies. She distinctly remembers how her mother used to pack them for tiffin. "She would load them with ketchup on top because I was borderline addicted to it. As I grew older, I started to appreciate the flavours of the meat that came through and how well it played with that of the mashed potato coating. I ditched ketchup soon enough to appreciate the finer things in life," shares the Mumbaikar, who expresses an emotion that most members of the Catholic community feel about the delicacy.

It is more popular among the Goan and East Indian community than others. It gets more interesting because potato chops as they are known are quite popular among the community, but beyond that are the lesser-known cousins of cutlets, which are called many different names around the country and have variants too. However, ask any Goan or East Indian and they will tell you that the meaty and glorious potato chop holds a very high position, especially during celebrations. While they are sold throughout the year by locals in churches around the city, they are a staple for Christmas lunch in most homes for the two communities. One can go as far as to say that a Christmas lunch is incomplete without potato chops.

Relishing potato chops
For the uninitiated, potato chops are a dish that comprises meat stuffed inside a pocket made of potatoes and breadcrumbs, then sealed and shallow-fried crisp on the outside and extremely soft on the inside with each bite producing a riot of flavours.

In fact, it was such a temptation for D'costa growing up that she even narrates a funny story associated with it. "I really loved how my neighbour from my old building in Vakola made them. Her name is Annie, and she would sell those and cutlets outside the church every Sunday. It was one strong motivator for me to attend Mass," she jokes.

Today, D'costa, who is one half of the delivery kitchen, Aiyo Patrao, which she runs with her husband Ashwin Nair, has also included it on her menu. "I have grown up enjoying potato chops and they are easily one of my favourite snacks. Their crispy exterior and juicy-savoury filling is so addictive," adds the Bandra resident, who has had it on the menu for a little over two years now.

So, what is really in the potato chop? Being a true flag-bearer of Goan cuisine, D'Costa says, "We usually use beef or mutton mince or choris. I have never felt the need to be innovative because they are absolutely brilliant just the way they are." If you go by portion size, then it is probably worth your money because it is not as flat as a cutlet but instead stuffed with a lot more. It is also why the Mumbaikar, whose delivery kitchen specialises in Goan and Kerala cuisines, says they have planned the portions accordingly. "They are so filling. Hence, we have just four in a portion," she shares.

Interestingly, the Mumbaikar shares an interesting story about the origin of the name. She explains, "People often wonder why it's called a potato chop. Funny thing is, back in the day, instead of a minced meat filling, they would use loin cuts that were part rib or vertebrae. Hence, chop. I guess the name is still stuck." Beyond Catholics, she says Bengalis love it too, and is one of the bestsellers from the menu. In fact, it is the same at home. Ever since she introduced it to Nair, they fight over the last one, which makes extra for them to savour, when they have orders.

A mix of tradition and innovation
In Bhayandar, Bernadite Kavoo, who is from the East Indian community, swears by potato chops. She explains, "It is a part of all our celebrations, whether it be Christmas, New Year, Feasts and even Easter." Having learned to make it from her mother, Kavoo has been making it for over 40 years now. "I would watch her prepare them for the holidays and that is how I learned. I always helped my mummy as a kid but I started making them myself only after my marriage," adds the Mumbaikar.

It is no wonder then when Kavoo says that today, she has made fond memories while watching her children and grandchildren eat them, whenever it is made in their home. With Christmas around the corner, the freshest batch may just be along the way. She shares, "We usually make it with beef, mutton or chicken mince, and sometimes I add finely cut salami and cocktails and mix it with mince." Even though she has been making it for more than four decades, the 64-year-old retired schoolteacher still gets curious looks from her children's friends who ask her how she made them, and what is the filling, and what spices she has used in them.

Just like Kavoo, Chris Kane is also another East Indian and Mumbaikar, from Versova, who absolutely loves potato chops. While she currently doesn't have it on the menu of her delivery kitchen called 'The Singing Chef' now, it is one of her favourites. She explains, "It is simply because it is like comfort food. Everybody loves potatoes and everybody loves meat. So, the combination is just perfect."

Like every other Goan and East Indian who has grown up around their grandmothers and mothers making potato chops, it was no different for Kane. Apart from Christmas, New Year and Easter, she also made it for weddings in the family.

While Kane also does the same, since the process is tedious, the diamond jewellery consultant makes it depending on the time she has around Christmas. Kane explains, "One of the fillings I use is brown beef mince, which is with onions and garam masala; it is double minced to get a good texture, made along with the potatoes." However, the Mumbaikar from Yari Road doesn't stop there. She takes the liberty to be innovative just a little more. "I add a bit of soya sauce and I put a bit of tomato ketchup to give the potato chops a salty sweet flavour," she adds.

Apart from the beef mince for the filling, Kane also minces vindaloo, to make her version of the classic potato chops. "I also make another filling with prawns, and one with green mince filling, which is basically making a green masala with coriander, mint, green chillies, ginger garlic paste, and garam masala to it." She even plays around with the textures, especially when she doesn't get good potatoes, by adding bread crumbs to it to make the texture better. With so many experiments, it's no surprise when Kane tells us she loves to cook and this Christmas is going to be no different. "Along with some sorpotel and vindaloo, I plan on making something with beef, maybe an Italian bake like a lasagne," she reveals her menu.