Take over turai: Mumbai chefs share innovative, traditional recipes to make ridge gourd into tasty treats

A lot of us have grown up eating different kinds of gourds but it is understandably not a favourite for many, especially with the likes of bitter gourd (karela). While the vegetable is made uniquely in different cuisines by communities around India, many still have a difficult relationship with it.

Incidentally, karela isn't the only gourd that people aren't in favour of. The others are bottle gourd, snake gourd and ridge gourd too. While bottle and snake gourd are still eaten by many, ridge gourd, popularly known as turai in Mumbai for many is one that people don't know what to do with and definitely not one that they would want to cook often. Interestingly, the vegetable that is said to be seasonal, is now available all throughout the year, according to vegetable vendors.

In fact, lost among the many green vegetables, it isn't one that may be preferred at first instance but is eaten only by people from communities who love using the ingredient in their dishes. As far as chefs at city restaurants are concerned, they make sure to use the vegetable as a snack, as well as a gravy. On the other hand, home chefs in the city are making use of the ingredient to relish traditional dishes.

Mid-day Online reached out to city restaurant and home chefs to share recipes for the ingredient that they have been using either at the restaurant or in their homes. They share not only unique and easy dishes but also ones that can be enjoyed by people across age groups.

Turai Subz Nazakat by Swanand Thipsay, chef, ITC Grand Central, Parel
At ITC Grand Central, chef Swanand Thipsay says it is made frequently by Indians, especially for its nutritional value. "It has rich beta carotene values and is very effective in enhancing the immune system. We do prepare dishes with this particular vegetable and one of them is the Turai Subz Nazakat." While the dish isn't part of their regular menu, Thipsay says it is made for guests who visit the nearby hospitals and stay at the hotel. The vegetable forms a part of their dietary requirements as it is suggested by the physician. ​​

Ingredients:
Turai 500 gm​
Green beans 50 gm​
Green peas 50 gm
Tomatoes 2 kilos​
Carrot 50 gm​
Paneer 300 gm​
Cream 50 gm​
Khoya 50 gm​
Brown cashew paste 50 ml​
Coriander 15 gm
Ginger 50 gm​
Green chillies​ 20 nos​
Garlic 50 gm​
Roasted Kaju (Cashew) 100 gm
Javetri (Mace) powder 5 gm​
Elaichi powder 5 gm​
Garam masala powder 15 gm​
Sugar 10 gm
Salt to taste​
Shahi Jeera 5 gm​
Kasuri Methi 5 gm​
Kashmiri chilli powder​5 gm​
Jeera powder 5 gm​
Ghee 5 gm

Method:
1. Peel the outer skin of the turai (Ridge Gourd) and wash afterwards. Once washed, cut into 8 cm thickness and remove the insides keeping the outer structure of the vegetable intact. Once turai has been processed, blanch the vegetable for two minutes and let it rest aside.​
2. Now for the stuffing, grate paneer in a bowl, add chopped coriander, ginger, green chillies and chopped roasted (bhuna) kaju. To the mixture add mace (javitri) and elaichi powder, garam masala powder and salt. Mix well.
3. In a separate bowl, add grated carrot, finely chopped green beans and peas, keep aside. In a pan, heat ghee and add shahi jeera, add the carrot mixture and cook until all the water has evaporated. Once the mixture is cooled down, grind it and add to the paneer stuffing already kept aside. Once the stuffing is ready, stuff the blanched turai with it and roast it in a tray until golden brown.
4. For the gravy, in a pan heat ghee, add ginger garlic paste and cook until the water has evaporated. Add boiled tomato paste and brown kaju paste. Add bhuna khoya followed by a mixture of garam masala powder, kasuri methi, kashmiri red chilli powder, jeera powder, salt and sugar. Cook the gravy until the fat starts to separate. And finish with cream.
5. Take out the roasted turai and cut it lengthwise into equal halves. Place them flat side down in the gravy. Garnish with finely chopped coriander and roasted cashews.

Peerthangai Thogayal by Sarada Krishna, home chef, South Side Mumbai, Chembur
If you don't want to experiment too much but still want to make something new out of the ingredient, Chembur-based home chef Sarada Krishnan suggests making Peerthangai Thogayal (ridge gourd-paste/chutney). The dish, popularly eaten by the Tamil community, is a simple yet comforting dish. She explains, "Perrtangai Thogayal is a rice paste mixed with piping hot rice with sesame oil, and applam (papad). It may not be the best gourd that catches our interest but when ground well with other ingredients, the smell and taste is unbelievable." Krishnan, who runs South Side Mumbai, a city-based home delivery kitchen which serves south Indian cuisine, says it is very easy to make and one that can be had with your morning dosas or as accompaniment with curd rice. "It is also perfect to feed your baby an extra vegetable without having to watch them flinch," adds the 30-year-old, who believes one should try it to believe it.

Ingredients:
Peertanga (ridge gourd) 1 nos
Coconut 1/2 cup
Red chillies 4-5 nos
Urad dal 1 tsp
Asafoetida (Hing) - 1/2 tsp
Tamarind (imli) size of a small lemon
Stone salt or rock salt as required
Mustard seeds 1 tsp
Red chillies 1 nos
Curry leaves 5-6 leaves

Method:
1. In sesame oil, sauté the peeled and diced ridge gourd until it shrinks and cooks well.
2. Add two curry leaves, coconut, urad dal, asafoetida (hing), tamarind (imli), and stone salt for five minutes.
3. Add all the above cooled down sautéed ingredients to a mixer jar and make a fine paste. Note: Do not add water while grinding.
4. In a small pan, add more oil and splutter mustard seeds, curry leaves, 1 red chilli and add to the paste. 5. Serve by mixing it with hot rice glazed with sesame oil and papad.

Jhinge Aloo Posto by Nandini Deb, home chef, Habu Dubu, Versova
City-based Bengali home chef Nandini Deb says ridge gourd is popular in the cuisine and used to make various dishes usually during the summer because it helps cool the body. "During summer, we make this dish Jhinge Aloo Posto. While posto is a heating agent, ridge gourd is cooling, so to balance them, the dish is made." Deb narrates that it was one dish that her grandmother used to make for her lunch, while they were growing up. "No Bengali hasn't had this dish because it is a quintessential traditional dish," she adds.

Ingredients:
Potatoes, large sized 3 nos
Tender ridge gourd 200 gm
Nigella seeds 1 tsp
Poppy seeds soaked in 5 tbsp of water
Green chillies 3-4 nos
Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
Chopped cilantro 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Mustard Oil to cook 1/4th cup

Method:
1. Smoke the mustard oil in a kadai (wok).
2. Peel and cube the potatoes, season it with some salt and shallow fry them. Cook till they are 3/4th done and then keep aside.
3. Peel and cut the ridge gourd in semi circles, smear salt and keep aside.
4. Alongside, grind together the soaked gourd and green chillies to a thick paste. You could do this in a mixer or use a sil batta.
5. Now to the oil, add 1 tsp of Nigella seeds/onion seeds, then add in the ridge gourd pieces. Once the ridge gourd is cooked, add the potatoes and the prepared poppy paste.
6. Next, add a pinch of turmeric powder and a little water. Cook till the poppy seed masala coats the veggies well. The semi thick gravy should just coat the potatoes and ridge gourd well.
7. Adjust the salt, then add the chopped cilantro. Serve it hot with steamed rice.

While ridge gourd is a summer favourite, dishes such as Kolhapuri Spiced Turai Pakoda can definitely be explored throughout the year. Photo Courtesy: Butterfly High

Kolhapuri Spiced Turai Pakoda by Vinayak Patil, corporate chef, Butterfly High, Thane and BKC
Keeping things simple, chef Vinayak Patil at city-based restaurant Butterfly High suggests making Kolhapuri spiced turai pakodas. While the ingredient is a summer favourite, it is definitely one that can be explored throughout the year. If you need one more reason to enjoy crispy pakodas made from ridge gourd, then Mumbai's current weather will definitely convince you to do that apart from its health benefits. "It is rich in dietary fibers, Vitamin A, Vitamin c, and high in water content making it an essential ingredient to be added to our diet," adds Patil.

Ingredients:
Turai, thinly sliced -1 no
Besan 1/2 cup
Rice flour 1/2 cup
Chopped coriander 1 gm
Ajwain 1/2 tsp
Jeera 1/2 tsp
Red chilli powder 1/4 tsp
Kolhapuri masala 1/4 tsp
Asafoetida 1 pinch
Salt according to taste.

Method:
1. Thinly slice the turai, sprinkle some salt on it and let it sit.
2. For the batter: In a bowl, add besan, rice flour, dry masalas, chopped coriander and mix. To this, add water in batches and make sure the batter is runny but not very liquid.
3. Now drench all the excess water from the turai and tap it dry.
4. Dip the turai slices in the batter one by one and fry until golden brown on both sides.
5. Serve hot with mint chutney.

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