On the truffle trail: How Mumbai chefs are re-inventing dishes with the gourmet ingredient on their menus

When chef Sarfaraz Ahmed started using truffles on the menu at Tresind Mumbai a year ago, it wasn't something the restaurant had planned to do. He explains, "We never intended to utilise truffle in our dishes because our concept is progressive Indian food." However, Ahmed and his team decided to push the boundaries of how truffle is perceived in India by elevating Indian food to global standards. The result? They incorporated truffles in one of their dishes called Scallop Wellington. Mind you, the fascination for truffles is not new in India and Mumbai, but there is a shift. It is one that even chef Alessandro Piso, the Italian chef at Romano's in JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar in Andheri, has seen ever since he joined them. Earlier this year, Piso launched a truffle-inspired menu himself.

According to the Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary, truffle is a rare, edible fungus that grows underground and is used in cooking. It is the fruiting body of a subterranean ascomycete fungus that is known to be expensive because it is available in limited quantities leading to the rise in prices. The fungus must not be confused with the soft, round and sweet chocolate candy that is also popular among people. So, what do truffles taste like? Piso explains, "They have a distinctive, strong aroma and earthy, musky flavour that can elevate any dish instantaneously. The scent is often described as a combination of garlic, nuts, and earthy notes, which can infuse dishes with a rich and complex taste."

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Use of truffle in Italian food
Interestingly, Ahmed and Piso aren't the only ones in Mumbai experimenting with truffles in the last year. With over two decades of experience in the hospitality industry, chef Gracian De Souza, who is the head chef at Fiori in Lonavala, also uses truffles in his menu. He admits that since they have become trendy, more people expect dishes with them on the menu. With truffle oil and truffle butter being one of the most popular variations, he uses them at the restaurant in different ways. He shares, "We use truffle oil in our mushroom risotto, as well as in our 4-cheese pizza and Parmesan truffle fries."

While there may be many who have a handful of dishes on the menu with truffle that usually appear in pasta and other kinds of Italian dishes, Mumbai-based chef and restauranteur Devika Manjrekar, the brains behind Toast Pasta Bar in Lower Parel, created an entire truffle menu like Piso, in July to showcase the limited-edition truffle menu.

On the menu, she put a Gnocco Fritto dipped in cheese and drizzled with truffle honey. It also had a rich and creamy Egg Yolk Raviolo with truffle butter, parmesan and shaved truffle on top. It even had a version of the classic Italian pizza called Truffle Pizzette, apart from a truffle butter, parmesan, and shaved truffle tagliatelle. The menu even had pasta made of wild mushroom, truffle stracciatella, and shaved truffle risotto. While these are savoury, the dessert on the menu had vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with truffle honey and topped with shaved truffle. Manjrekar's extensive use of truffles in her truffle-inspired menu is proof of the changing shift in how truffles are being eaten today and the very access to such dishes as compared to a few years ago.

At Romano's among all the dishes that he uses truffle in, Piso says his favourite is the beautiful lamb dish called Angnelo e Tartufo (Lamb and Truffle). He explains, "We use summer truffle. The lamb rack is marinated for three days then pandered and finished in the oven. For the base, we prepare a beautiful barley risotto infused with spinach and truffle aroma (truffle oil) with some artichoke puree infused in mint. Our 24-hour lamb juice finishes with a long-lasting taste of the diced truffle that helps to elevate the flavour of the entire dish."

Experimenting with Indian flavours with truffle
Beyond using it in Italian food at the five-star property, the Mumbai expat says there has been a visible encouraging trajectory of the ingredient in the city. Piso explains, "There has been a notable evolution in the usage of truffles in Mumbai and India at large. Initially, the usage of truffles was limited to European cuisine, but now they are being incorporated into a variety of dishes and cuisines. Culinary experts and chefs are experimenting with truffles in traditional Indian recipes, fusion cuisine, and contemporary dishes, blending them with local ingredients and flavours."

Ahmed's work at Tresind Mumbai is an extension of this very evolution. For example, the Scallop Wellington that is featured on the degustation menu is more than a dish because it is an experience. He sheds light, "This meal is served with Parmesan Moilee and consists of layers of scallops and truffles contained in a pastry shell, which is then cooked and sliced down to a Wellington shape before being served. We use summer truffles, which are regarded as one of the greatest truffles to use internationally. The umami taste characteristic of truffles elevates the overall flavour profile of the dish." While diners who come to the restaurant are aware of the kind of food served, he says the response to the dish has been overwhelming, as people get to enjoy something like truffle, which is considered a luxury item, right here in Mumbai.

Piso has even seen other Indian chefs creatively pairing truffles with local ingredients like spices, cheeses, and herbs. He further shares, "For instance, truffle-infused naan or truffle-flavoured biryanis represents a fusion of traditional Indian cuisine with global luxury ingredients."

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Popularity and influence of pricing of truffles
It is not only the cuisine and dishes but the fact that it was earlier difficult to find them in dishes on menus has its reasons, says the city-based Italian chef, who adds, "While truffles were once predominantly featured only in fine dining and luxury establishments, they are now appearing in a much wider range of restaurants, including casual dining joints and even some specialty food stores and cafes." Overall, he believes the response to truffles is evolving from a niche luxury ingredient to a mainstream luxury ingredient that is well appreciated by both culinary professionals and general consumers. It can not only be attributed to the conversations on social media but also to cooking shows, online recipes and food blogs, leading to more people learning about it. "This newly acquired information has also trickled into a growing market for truffle-based products, such as truffle oils, truffle salts, and truffle-infused sauces, making it easier for a broader audience to experiment with truffle flavours at home," he adds.

Ahmed says when one talks about the evolution of truffles in Mumbai and India, it is hard to miss one of the city's most popular hotels, which was one of the first to start using it. He adds, "The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai, as well as a few other five-star establishments with outstanding culinary journeys that have been utilising truffles for a very long time. These establishments have long catered to international influencers and audiences and have always provided a sense of luxury through their food and experiences, and truffle has always played a part in that." The demand for truffles is rising, and the culinary scenes in Mumbai are evolving as a result of international chefs joining the city from continents like Europe and partnering with eateries."

So, what has led to this widespread truffle beyond the five-star properties? This growing popularity of truffles has significantly affected their pricing, says Piso, particularly of the highly sought-after varieties like the white truffle from Alba and the black Périgord truffle. They can be extremely expensive due to their rarity and the difficulty in cultivating and harvesting them.

It is because of their scarcity, nature, and history, says Ahmed that truffles have become a popular gourmet ingredient around the world becoming one of the most luxurious and prestigious ingredients on the global menu. "Due to the difficulties of navigating the supply chain, truffles were previously only available at five-star facilities or high-end hotel and food franchises. However, this has altered over time, and with the growing need for global goods and travellers, demand has increased," he adds. With the price of truffles varying depending on availability, Ahmed says this also causes a decline in demand and usage. "When supply is abundant, prices naturally decline, but the price of the dishes is always determined by their weights," he dissects.

Even with the popularity of truffles, Piso says the high cost can be a major factor in pricing gourmet dishes and luxury products. It is also why restaurants and food businesses often pass these costs onto consumers, leading to higher prices for truffle-based dishes and products. It is no different for non-commercial use, such as home cooking, he says, "The cost remains high but might be less affected by the markup compared to restaurant prices. However, even in retail markets, the price of truffles is influenced by their demand and availability. As truffles become more popular and the demand continues to grow, their prices will tend to increase, making them a luxury item for both commercial and personal use."

It is not only restaurants and five-star properties in Mumbai that have cashed in on the evolving palate for the ‘luxury food item' but also a one-year-old luxury gourmet store, Food Square in Mumbai, that has come to the party. In-house chef Sushil Multani says they have used truffle in their menu at The Barn, their restaurant inside the store, since they opened in September 2023. It includes the likes of Truffle Shroom Toast, Truffle Tortellini, Mushroom Soup and Truffle Arancini. He explains, "Truffles are highly sought after and add a rich, luxurious touch to many dishes. We also offer a wide range of truffle products in our store, encouraging customers to experiment with truffle flavours at home." Amid the inquiries for truffles increasing over the last year, they have also got many informed customers even giving them suggestions to add truffles to simple dishes like eggs, pasta, and roasted or grilled vegetables, which he says, are all significantly improved with truffle, and more particularly truffle oil.

Beyond chefs experimenting with them in dishes in restaurants and people enjoying them there, he says there is another kind of shift. With the increasing availability of truffles, he explains "This renewed interest is also driven by customers who want to cook at home with a touch of luxury and indulgence that truffles can provide." As cooking with truffles at home rises, Multani says it has led the gourmet store to also pay more attention to the way truffles are kept. "We carefully manage our supply chain and sourcing practices to ensure our truffles and truffle products remain a unique and valued part of our offerings," he shares.
Into the future of truffle

With truffles certainly getting more popular than before, the Mumbai-based chef says he sees truffles going places. Personally, enjoying truffles combined with Parmesan cheese and Parma ham, Multani explains, "As sourcing improves and the demand for experimentation continues, truffles are likely to become more popular and gain wider acceptance in local cuisines." It also makes me want to create a dessert featuring truffles, such as a Parmesan fonduta ice cream with a Parma ham crumble.

On the other hand, Piso believes truffles will be seen in more fusion and global cuisines as chefs try out unique flavour combinations. Is it surprising then that the Italian wants to experiment with the ingredient by making a truffle-infused risotto with seasonal shellfish and a touch of citrus? He explains, "The flavour of the shellfish will give that beautiful aroma of the ocean paired with the earthy aroma of truffles complimenting each other. While the citrus would add a fresh contrast, highlighting the truffle's unique flavour profile and showing that the sea and the land can be incorporated into one beautiful flavour."

At the larger level, more importantly, he says, "As truffle cultivation technology advances, there may be a greater focus on sustainable and farmed truffles. This could make truffles more accessible and affordable while ensuring their quality and availability." With not only truffles but also a growing demand for the by-products, Ahmed says it already indicates the growing demand for the upscale ingredient making its way into more Mumbai and Indian homes.