Mumbai’s East Indian community love their bottle masala, but they love their mangoes too

The women from the community use the raw mangoes not only in pickles that are stored for the monsoon but also in fish curries. Photo: istock

It's been a busy two months for Regina Pereira, who has been making the most of the mangoes growing in her backyard. Being a part of the East Indian community, the Vasai-based resident who lives in Giriz, one of the many East Indian villages in the suburb has had mixed luck this year, as only one of her two mango trees have blossomed. It is the first time in many years since the tree was planted 45 years ago by her husband's parents that it hasn't borne fruit, Pereira reveals. She says, "I think it is God's way of saying that you should stay indoors and also not call the pickers who come to remove the mangoes, for their safety due to this Covid-19 pandemic." Every time other people pass by her house, they notice the missing mangoes. The tree is very noticeable because it is at the front of the house, and gives fruit to thousands of mangoes, which are a delight to the eyes of young and old.

However, the lack of fruit from one tree hasn't stopped her. Pereira is in the process of making her third batch of pickles for the season. These mangoes were picked in early March from the other tree, which is being generous as usual.

Pereira's love for the mango trees in her house is no surprise. Althea D'souza, another East Indian from Bhayandar, talking about the role of mango trees in an East Indian house, explains, "Most of the East Indians in Uttan, Gorai, Culvem, Manori and other places in the city grow or own their own mango trees. It's an ancestral practice to do this. So, when its mango season they distribute mangoes which are grown in their compounds to friends and relatives. It's specially exciting for us when we receive mangoes from relatives based there, as we live in the city and don't get to grow our own huge mango trees here," says the 30-year-old marketing professional, who is originally from Uttan.

Paan Amba at Regina Pereira's house in Giriz, Vasai (West)

The raw deal
The women from the community, who guard their recipes like no other, use mangoes in two ways - raw and ripe. Raw mangoes seem to be more popular as they are more versatile and are not only used in pickles, which are stored for the monsoon but also used for fish curries which include shrimp among others. "I am going through my third batch of pickles," says Pereira proudly. During the wedding season, Pereira is very busy as she, along with four other women, come together to cook for the ‘paani', the traditional ceremony in the community, before the wedding. "We do not usually share our recipes but I can tell you I do not use oil like how other pickles are made because I don't like too much oil in my food. These are being prepared for the monsoon season to eat along with dal and rice, among other dishes," says the cook, who also receives orders for traditional dishes from people in Palghar and as far as Raigad. She also makes Paan Amba (pickled mangoes) and Mango chutney, which is had throughout the year.

Pereira uses the small raw mangoes for sweet-sour pickles and curries and the ripe mangoes are used simply for fresh juices, but the former seems to be a clear favourite for the Vasai local. However, unlike many others, she swears by the mangoes in her backyard, which the Giriz local says are not called by any particular name; while they have the appearance of ‘batli aam', they taste different.

A few kilometres away from Pereira's home in Giriz is Teresa Lobo, another East Indian local from Vasai, who has already made the sweet and sour pickle (ambat godh - translates to sour-sweet) this season. Being from the originally from the Manickpur village, she sources her mangoes from there and the Ambadi and Holi markets near here. While she uses any kind of raw mangoes for her curries and dishes, she uses the Rajapuri mangoes for her pickles. While she swears by her Paan Amba, it is the Karandi Amba (a dry dish of small prawns prepared with mangoes) which makes an appearance more during this season in her house. "I follow the recipes my mother used to cook but unfortunately, the quality of the mangoes has changed which invariably hampers the taste of my dishes," says 62-year-old Lobo. She adds, "I try to experiment but prefer to cook what my mother taught me."

Lobo makes a variety of dishes during the season. While the sweet and sour pickle has already started appearing at the table this season, she also makes a hot and spicy version of the pickle for her family. The Lobo household also sees dishes like Bafat and Paan Amba, and Amboshi. Lobo says, "The Bafat is made with bottle masala, raw mangoes, dry bombil (Bombay Ducks), brinjal and potatoes. Instead of using tamarind, we use mangoes during the mango season."

Kusondi at Veda Rebello's house in Charai, Thane West

The culture of mangoes
Interestingly, East Indians do not limit their use of mangoes only to the season, years of practice and love for the fruit has also made them develop ways to preserve it till the next season. One of the popular processes is called Amboshi - thin slices of raw mangoes are dried during the summer are stored in glass bottles to use through the year in different food items. It is not only Amboshi but also Paan Amba, which is made to be had throughout the year. "I make this dish from small mangoes (soft seed) which are soaked in a jar of salt water, for a year or more and can be eaten as a side-dish with kanji (rice water) and other dishes," adds Lobo.

On the other side of town in Thane, Veda Rebello has only started making the pickles and chutneys yet owing to the lockdown and Covid-19 restrictions but hopes she can make her usual spread soon. Just like Pereira and Lobo, 84-year-old Rebello uses mangoes in her pickles and curries and also in her chutneys extensively but not more than the bottle masala which forms the base for most dishes.

Now, the East Indian community loves their bottle masala but question them about whether mangoes give it competition for their extensive use, and they flatly deny it. The relationship between East Indians, and their safely-guarded family recipe of bottle masala is sacred and must not be challenged. "Since it is seasonal, it is not as extensively used as the popular bottle masala. Mangoes are most often a part of seafood dishes," informs Rebello, who is originally from Ranwar in Bandra but lives with her family in Charai now in Thane.

Using raw mangoes (kairi), she makes seafood dishes such as Whathul and Ambownie, which are curries made out of prawns and use raw mangoes as the souring agent. Similarly, it is also used to make dishes such as Kardi and Mangoes (same as Karandi Aamba), and the popular East Indian Chinchoni curry, which is made with a variety of fish using mangoes for a welcoming sourness. The Thane resident also makes a delicious Metham Mango pickle and Kusondi pickle from raw mangoes.

Like Rebello, D'souza also uses mangoes in her East indian curries like Mango Fish Curry which includes any kind of fish along with slices of raw mangoes with bottle masala. She says, "We also make Whathul of prawns in my house. It includes ripe mangoes, coconut juice, bottle masala, prawns & other simple ingredients. In fact, personally I like dropping the mango seed (which usually goes wasted), whether ripe or raw (depends on the curry) into my curries, it just adds that extra flavour."

While there are many popular East Indian dishes that are passed down through generations in the city, there are many dishes that are being forgotten, like in many other cultures. Rebello is proud of her East Indian descent and cuisine but fears that not many from the younger generations know how to make these dishes. Ask her how the use of mangoes has changed in the cuisine of the last few decades and expresses what many from the older generations fear. She cautions, "It hasn't changed much, however the number of individuals who know how to make these delicacies has reduced over the years, as has with most cuisines. Individuals are opting for quicker methods of cooking."

Sweet Mango Chutney at Veda Rebello's house in Charai, Thane West

Recipes

Sweet and sour pickle (Ambat Godh) by Teresa Lobo
Finely chop raw mangoes.
Add little salt and turmeric and mix it well.
Keep it aside for 5-6 hours and then dry it under the fan and not under the sun (overnight).
In the morning give it a seasoning with oil, red chilli powder, jaggery, little salt, turmeric powder and mix till everything is one consistency and add the mangoes.
Cook for 5-7 minutes then close and keep aside.
Cover it and keep it aside for 3 days keep stirring it from time to time.
After 3 days, add it to the bottle and store it for 6 weeks or more till it's ready to consume.

Karadhi and Mango (Small prawns and mango) by Veda Rebello
Use 1 cup of cleaned small prawns, 2 onions, 2 green mangoes and bottle masala
Heat 3 tbps of oil and fry the sliced onions
After it is soft, add the small prawns, green mangoes and bottle masala with salt to taste
Add half a cup of water and allow it to simmer and then add few chopped coriander leaves

Mango chutney by Regina Pereira
Use one 1 raw mango medium size, 1 bunch spring onions or 2 normal white onions, 1 piece of ginger,
2 to 3 green chillies, 1/2 bunch of coriander, 3/4 flakes of garlic flakes, salt as per taste and one 1tbsp of coconut.
Grind it all together without water, according to preference of consistency
Serve when ready