Mid-day Special | Filter coffee in Mumbai: More than just a beverage — It's an emotion

Lynn Misquith loves the filter coffee at Hotel Ramashraya in Matunga. It even tops her list for the best filter coffee in Mumbai because it is the closest that comes to home for her. Misquith reminds us that the team at the hotel, which is one of Mumbai's most popular South Indian restaurants, hails from Mangalore. She shares, "It is a reminder of how much small towns like ours have contributed to the food and coffee culture, and the taste always brings me back to those origins." Born and raised in the coffee land of Karnataka, specifically Chikmagalur, where the origins of coffee are popularly traced, filter coffee has always held a special place in Misquith's heart even as her family moved to Mangaluru. Her father himself is a second-generation coffee grower in the region, as a part of their family estate.

She narrates, "There are two phrases commonly shared with every visitor, ‘Come home, I'll make some filter coffee, and we can talk' or ‘Did you have your coffee before dusk?' These words always resonated with me." Over time, it has become more than just a beverage for her. "It has become a ritual and a thought starter for meaningful conversations and activities. It is a comfort factor that connects me to my roots and brings a sense of familiarity no matter where I am." It did not change even when she moved to Mumbai in 2018 because of hotels like Ramashraya in the city. Today, even though she has moved to Bengaluru, the former Mumbaikar still brews her coffee at home.

Earlier this year, the south Indian filter coffee was also ranked second in the 'Top 38 Coffees In The World' list released by TasteAtlas, just after the 'Cuban Espresso'.

Filter coffee is an emotion. Everybody will agree. The perfect combination of the milk-to-coffee ratio followed by the cooling method in the dabarah set (metal tumbler and saucer) has been mastered by every South Indian restaurant. The goodness of this coffee has even trickled into Mumbai, which boasts a significant number of South Indian restaurants sprinkled across the city in abundance. While they offer the city's traditional fare of dosas, idlis and vadas with sambar and chutney, or even the other specials, it is customary to enjoy it with a filter coffee. Amid the chaos and clatter of the plates and cups, it provides one solitary moment that slows down time and helps you enjoy every sip.

It reminds Misquith of simpler times. "My fondest memories of growing up with filter coffee are when the clock struck 4:30 pm. The rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee would fill the house, and alongside it, a savory snack would always be waiting. It was a time of quiet excitement, as the whole family gathered in the dining hall. We didn't need to say much - just enjoying the comforting silence, one sip at a time. It was one of those rare moments where we were all together, sharing the simple pleasure of coffee and each other's company."

It often feels like once you get introduced to the Indian version of coffee, it is hard to fall in love with any other kind of coffee, unless you leave room for experimentation. Every year, International Coffee Day is observed on October 1 around the world to celebrate the goodness of the beverage. India has a long-known rich history with coffee, but over the years, the classic beverage that competes with tea in the country has seen many different kinds of evolutions including instant coffee, services offering freshly ground beans, and even micro-lots. However, the one aspect that has stood the test of time is India's love for filter coffee - uncomplicated and divine.

It has been like that not only for Misquith but also for Chennai-based social media manager Ayshvarya Narayan, who has grown up with filter coffee. She excitedly narrates, "It seems, I first tasted coffee when I was only a few months old when my mom's grandmother fed me a few drops of coffee, apparently when she visited us. While growing up I remember having a very diluted version of the coffee, but my mom's filter coffee is the best coffee I've ever had in my life. It's like a super warm hug packed in a cup of joy. Coffee has always been our love language at home."

Such is her preference that she believes not all ‘filter kaapi', as she likes to call it, is the same, and undoubtedly prefers the one made at her mother's home in Perungalathur. She explains, "It is dark and bitter, strong and better. Nothing beats the filter kaapi served in a stainless-steel glass and dabara set." Such is their family tradition that even after getting married, the 27-year-old follows her mother's instructions while making filter coffee and it has been a ritual at her home in Anna Nagar. "I prefer freshly brewed coffee. So, I always make fresh decoction, even if it's 1 am. One thing my mom taught me is never to reuse boiled milk. So, we use a new packet of milk every time we make coffee. I also pour the first decoction back into the filter and use the second decoction. It's better and stronger."

The emotion is no different for Misquith. For the 27-year-old communications professional it is the simplicity and effortlessness of the brewing process that evokes a lot more. She shares, "Unlike other methods, it doesn't require a significant investment in equipment, making it accessible to anyone. Each sip carries a rich history, a tradition passed down through generations, adding a sense of nostalgia and connection to our ancestors. It's more than just coffee - it's an experience steeped in heritage."

Also Read: International Coffee Day: Elevate your coffee routine with these must-try recipes

Uniqueness of filter coffee
So, what makes filter coffee unique? Having grown while spending many days at the estate with her father, Misquith says, "Watching my father toil through the seasons to cultivate the crop has deepened my appreciation for the nuances of coffee. The crucial aspect is how the grind of the beans directly impacts the taste. If the grind is too coarse, the water passes through too quickly, leading to an under-extracted, weak cup. On the other hand, if the grind is too fine, it results in slow filtration and over-extraction, which makes the coffee bitter and uneven in flavour."

In Mumbai, chef Mohnish Kothare at Mazi Coffee Bar and Kitchen in Santacruz explains, "South Indian filter coffee, often called ‘kaapi' is a blend of dark roasted coffee beans (typically a mix of Arabica and Robusta) and chicory, which adds body and flavour. The beans are ground finely, but not as fine as espresso, and brewed using a drip-style filter, often a metal device called a ‘filter' or ‘percolator'."

While many in Mumbai do not have the luxury of enjoying it at home due to the lack of knowledge, the city's South Indian restaurants have given birth to many fans of the coffee, who are not necessarily south Indian. A wholesome breakfast coupled with quick service ensures a refreshing start to the day.

So, what makes filter coffee timeless? Kothare believes, "It is still popular today due to its strong cultural roots, unique preparation method, and distinctive taste -- often described as smooth, slightly sweet, and robust." The fact that filter coffee is deeply ingrained in South Indian households, where it is often part of the morning ritual makes it simply timeless. "Families pass down their brewing methods, and many people grew up with the sound and aroma of filter coffee being made," he adds.

If that wasn't enough, then the Mumbai chef says the coffee has a very appealing distinct flavour because of the addition of chicory. He further explains, "It adds a slightly woody or earthy undertone to the coffee. The traditional mix with hot milk and sugar, results in a rich, frothy beverage that's different from Western coffee styles like espresso or pour-over. It is often associated with warmth, hospitality, and comfort."

Using filter coffee innovatively
In Kerala's Kumarakom, SK Aman Islam, executive chef at Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond, has witnessed a resurgence in traditional brewing methods, with filter coffee emerging as a focal point in restaurants and cafes. He further explains, "This resurgence is likely due to an increased appreciation for the purity and simplicity of the coffee bean, where the unadulterated flavours can shine. As a chef, I have seen guests increasingly prefer filter coffee for its authenticity and the comforting ritual it represents."

Interestingly, it hasn't stopped chefs and baristas from experimenting with flavours that not only appear in food but also in drink of different kinds. He further explains, "Filter coffee has undergone significant transformation in modern culinary landscapes. We have experimented with incorporating filter coffee into cold brew cocktails and unique dessert pairings, offering a contemporary twist while preserving its traditional essence."

Even as filter coffee has retained its popularity, Islam says several trends have sprouted over the last few years with filter coffee at the centre of it all. He explains, "There has been a growing demand for cold brew coffee, with many coffee shops offering variations made from filter coffee. Consumers are also increasingly prioritising ethically sourced coffee, leading to a greater focus on fair trade and organic practices in filter coffee. There is also a trend of people moving towards single-origin filter coffees that allow customers to explore the distinct flavours and characteristics of beans from specific regions." It does not stop there as they are also innovative with new brewing techniques -- the pour-over and immersion brewing are capturing the interest of coffee enthusiasts looking for unique flavour profiles and textures. "Filter coffee has found its way into a variety of cocktails, adding a rich flavour profile and a touch of caffeine to elevate the drink experience," he adds.

Coffeeza, a Goa-based premium specialty coffee brand, has been one such company to jump on the bandwagon. Started in 2019 by founder and CEO, Rahul Aggarwal, filter coffee has been a part of their offering since the beginning. He explains, "We have a premium filter coffee offering that stands out from the typical cheaper options available. While most sellers use lower-quality coffee and chicory, our filter coffee features the finest quality of coffee beans from Chikmagalur and Coorg, combined with top-grade chicory sourced from Gujarat. This premium 80/20 blend ensures an authentic and rich filter coffee taste."

While the final produce of filter coffee is enjoyed by many people, Aggarwal highlights how even the brewing process is often viewed as an enjoyable art. It may have just led more people to spend time making their coffee today than before. It is true because Rochana, a Chennai-based marketing professional, did not grow up drinking filter coffee and for that matter even hated it. She narrates, "Once I hit adulthood, I started having coffee almost every day to the point that I fell in love with it and cannot live without drinking at least a cup a day. I love the process. It is more like an art and if executed properly, that will make your day. Nothing can beat the beautiful aroma when pouring hot water into the coffee machine."

Today, the former coffee hater but now lover, enjoys every part of the process. "Right from the process of making it to adding the right amount of milk to our cup and drinking it - it is simply beautiful. I feel it's unique because it hits home for South Indians. It is more of a comfort drink than an energiser."

The brewing process, says the Goa-based entrepreneur, brings out a balanced taste that can be adjusted with different amounts of milk and sugar. Ask him what made him experiment with filter coffee and he breaks it down, "There is a segment of the Indian market that genuinely enjoys and drinks filter coffee. Since Coffeeza stands for premium specialty coffee, we wanted to offer this audience a taste of high-quality filter coffee that sets itself apart from the cheaper options commonly available. Our goal was to provide a richer, more authentic filter coffee experience."

Beyond drinking filter coffee by itself, like Islam, even chef Sarfaraz Ahmed, who is the corporate chef for Passion F&B, and instrumental in designing the menu at Tresind Mumbai, believes the evolution of the classic filter coffee goes beyond the barista and into the kitchen. "Filter coffee has evolved from a basic domestic ingredient to a sophisticated component of contemporary cooking. Restaurants are banking on its use because of its adaptability. Chefs are experimenting with new takes on this classic, from drinks to desserts, realizing that it appeals to diners's nostalgic and sensual senses."

It is also why the restaurant has taken the liberty at the restaurant to innovate with filter coffee by incorporating it into their Filter Coffee Cornetto. He explains, "We have paired its rich, roasted flavours with miso caramel ice cream. A well-balanced dessert that pleasantly delights the palate is produced by the contrast between the rich, fermented miso and the cosy warmth of the coffee. This meal pushes the bounds of filter coffee consumption without sacrificing its flavour profile." Ask him why he experimented with the beverage with the dessert, and he is quick to add, "We wanted to stretch the boundaries of filter coffee's amazing depth by adding a miso aspect of fermentation. We prepare filter coffee mousse that is paired with salted caramel and miso ice cream that creates a burst of umami with slight saltiness balancing the flavours and the miso adds a burst of umami." It is one of many creations that many chefs and baristas have embarked on while experimenting with filter coffee while retaining its essence in more than one way.