Heritage goes trendy: How Mumbai’s iconic restaurants stay relevant in changing times

At a time when Mumbai is seeing restaurants and bars sprouting at every nook and corner in the city, there is a change simmering among heritage hotels and restaurants in Mumbai. While renovations are always a part of maintaining any structures, some of the city's most popular dining spots are going through much more not only with the food menu but also with their interior décor that carries a touch of old but not without catering to the evolving consumer. It is one that involves Millennials and Gen-Z - the latter is even known to dictate their likes and dislikes as compared to the earlier generations, simply because of the abundance in choices that allow them the luxury of visiting restaurants in the suburbs instead of going all the way to South Mumbai.

Earlier this year, Trident on Marine Drive opened Ness in May, replacing the famed India Jones, to make way for a very inviting space at the end of the lobby on the right. It doesn't necessarily have to be accessed by in-house guests but also by people who want to have a meal at the property before heading out into the night, particularly having access to the sea while seated in the comfort of their seats instead of out in the open. It was one of several properties in the neighbourhood that have changed in the last year. Before the Marine Drive landmark, InterContinental Marine Drive also revamped the menu at Kebab Korner to attract not just the one-time diner but encourage them to come again with some classic dishes with a twist. Imagine serving a galouti kebab in a taco.

Continuing a legacy with fresh perspective
The forward-thinking change came after 67-year-old Gaylord, one of Mumbai's most iconic restaurants revamped not only its food menu but also its interior décor. Interestingly, they kept some of their favourites in both. Last year, The Ambassador also revamped its menu, setting the tone for an interesting change among heritage restaurants that are going beyond their regulars to attract the well-travelled diner as well as the one that has the spending capacity and wants to try out something new every single time they step out.

Dhruv Lamba, one-half of the third-generation owners of Gaylord, explains, "It wasn't simply a renovation. It was a meticulous curation aimed at celebrating our rich legacy while welcoming a new generation of diners. We opted for a black and white colonial theme, accented with touches of Parisian flair. This creates a more contemporary and inviting space, yet the historical photographs and artifacts scattered throughout whisper tales of our illustrious past." For the Lambas, who are one part of the original partners popularly known as Ghai and Lamba, and now handle the business, stepping into the revamped restaurant feels like a homecoming imbued with a touch of modern sophistication. "It is the perfect blend of honouring our heritage and embracing the future."

This meant completely transforming both the interior design and the menu at Gaylord. Dhruv says the interiors are now a captivating interplay of black and white elegance, highlighting, "The plush seating beckons you to linger and savour the ambience, while the Parisian-inspired outdoor patio offers a unique and romantic setting, bathed in the soft glow of evening." All this while you are able to see history in the photos that depict the legacy of the restaurant in its permanent fixture off Churchgate railway station. "You can perhaps a young Raj Kapoor or the Beatles grace one of those photos, adding a touch of whimsical intrigue to your dining experience," he adds.

It is no different with the menu which has some favourites but also makes place for new. At a time when restaurant menus change every few months, Divij Lamba believes there was a need to strike a balance between tradition and innovation and Dhruv believes they have been able to do that while keeping in mind to keep some of their most popular dishes that diners have liked over the years on the menu. He shares, "The menu reflects this same philosophy of refined evolution. We retained all the classic favourite dishes like Chicken à la Kiev, that have become synonymous with Gaylord experiences for generations. These are the culinary cornerstones that evoke cherished memories for our long-time patrons. However, we have also curated a selection of exciting new creations like Veg Au Gratin, catering to a wider range of palates and ensuring there's something to tantalise every taste bud."

At the same time, Divij says even as the Chicken a la Kiev has been the cornerstone of their food legacy, and the Veg Au Gratin a part of their new menu, they have also taken the liberty to include other dishes to appeal to a wider palate. "The introduction of new creations like Lasooni Palak keeps the menu exciting and caters to a more diverse clientele. We have taken a thoughtful approach, incorporating familiar ingredients with a modern twist. For instance, the Flowery Nilgiri Orange Pekoe tea offers a unique and sophisticated experience for tea connoisseurs. This allows us to introduce new flavour profiles without alienating our existing customer base," he adds.

Role of heritage restaurants and hotels in Mumbai
In a time when Mumbai is constantly seeing an explosion of restaurants in every direction that goes beyond South Mumbai to Lower Parel and Dadar, as well as Bandra and Andheri, and further north, Divij believes the role of heritage restaurants goes beyond just have striking interior décor and delicious food. He explains, "Heritage restaurants play a vital role in the cultural tapestry of a city like Mumbai. We are more than just a place to eat. We are a living testament to the city's history and culture. The classic dishes offer a taste of the past, transporting you to a bygone era with every flavour. The ambience, with its historical touches, evokes a sense of nostalgia for a time gone by. In a city that's constantly evolving, Gaylord provides a sense of continuity and a platform to connect with Mumbai's vibrant past. It is a place where people can gather over a delicious meal, creating new memories that become part of the city's ever-evolving story. We are a legacy in the making."

While many Mumbaikars have shared their fond memories not only as adults but also as children coming to the restaurant over the last five decades, the city's five-star properties have also stood the test of time and Intercontinental at Marine Drive has been one of them. With Kebab Korner more recently changing its food menu, it shows its growing intent to change with times and if that means not only changing its food menu but also its crockery, then Mumbaikars can cherish fond memories without feeling sad about renovations completely changing the look of the place that overlooks the Arabian sea.

Kushkant Tripathi, director of food & beverage, at Intercontinental Marine Drive, shares, "While there are a great number of diners who seek out new experiences every time they go out with so many new restaurants and concepts opening up in the city every week, there are enough number of diners who prefer to stick to their tried and tested restaurants where they are assured of quality service, consistency and the recognition of being a regular guest. Our restaurant executive, Jaspalji has been with Kebab Korner since 1980 and continues to welcome guests and remembers all their preferences. These are the little things that guests cherish."

At the same time, diners have not only been able to enjoy the food but also the live ghazal music and even join in at the restaurant at the property that glows against the promenade in the night light. Just like Gaylord, one is immediately transported to a bygone era when they enter Intercontinental and even Kebab Korner with the music, servers and interior design. Tripathi adds, "Kebab Korner was one such restaurant where a lot of special occasions were celebrated over the decades. Even after so many years, it still offers guests the opportunity to revisit those special memories and reminisce about the good times. We have served three generations of families --- children who once visited with their parents and have now grown up and visit with families of their own."

In a city that is changing so fast, he believes heritage restaurants and hotels offer a much-needed sense of balance, comfort, nostalgia, calm and familiarity through their hospitality and the quality. "So, while being modern and trendy holds value today, staying timeless yet relevant holds equal merit, if not more," he adds.

Catering to the evolved diner
Being a north Indian speciality restaurant specialising in serving authentic food the traditional way, they have some signature dishes that have been a part of the menu since the start but have changed with times to include more dishes to suit the tastes of newer guests. The Mumbai-based hotelier shares, "Kebab Korner's identity has always been its kebabs, so we don't mess with the classics. Time-honoured, signature dishes such as Afghani Kebab, Seekh Kebab, Lamb Chops, Pomfret Tikka, Lasooni Palak, Dal Makhani, Kasundi Broccoli continue to be on the menu without any recipe tweaks. We have supplemented this with new additions such as Murgh Ke Parche, Mughlai Kalmi Kebab, Dahi Ke Kebab and Dungari Murgh Korma to name a few."

Interestingly, Tripathi says the last time they changed their menu was two years ago but have still retained the essence of the restaurant. He shares, "While 65 per cent of the menu remains unchanged, we use the balance of 35 per cent to introduce new dishes. This is the pattern that we follow for menu changes every couple of years as introducing new elements is a necessary practice." However, they also made a significant change in the process. While they regularly upgrade their show plates, crockery, serveware and glassware to reflect more contemporary designs, they converted Kebab Korner into an all-day restaurant. "Last year, we introduced an unlimited North Indian thali lunch as prior to that, the restaurant was only operational for dinner. The thali offers superb value for the variety of dishes one gets to try," he adds.

Even as they have changed their food menu, it may not always be the case with interior décor, as there is a lot of cost involved in the process. It is also why they have had to be careful to showcase their intent through the many different elements. He explains, "Good interiors make people feel comfortable. For some, it creates the feeling of a home away from home and for others, it can make them feel like they're in a different city. The restaurant's interiors have always been contemporary with subtle Indian elements such as the antique brass utensil installations that adorn the ceiling and the metal jharoka panels by the windows that accentuate the stunning sea view."

The latter is one of the many reasons why people love some of Mumbai's most iconic heritage restaurants and hotels, many of which are seaside, but otherwise, transport you to a different time while still staying contemporary even after 40 years in the city.