Ganesh Chaturthi 2024: From sev barfi to patande, how different Indian communities make sweets beyond modaks in India

For most people living in Maharashtra, Ganesh Chaturthi has always been about gorging on modaks, as the festival has always been synonymous with the sweet treat that is known to be Lord Ganesha's favourite. However, Vijay Raheja and his family in Santacruz in Mumbai have a different tradition because the Rahejas make a delicious sev barfi. He shares, "One of our most cherished offerings to Lord Ganesha is sev barfi, a traditional Sindhi dessert, that has always been the first bhog in our home. This sweet treat, with its rich flavours, holds a special place in our celebrations, and we look forward to making and enjoying it every year."

Every year, Mumbai comes alive starting with Ganesh Chaturthi followed with Ganeshotsav celebrations during this time of the year. The celebrations touch every corner of the city and are extremely grand as they are not only different historic pandals that sprout across the city. Interestingly, even though the festival is popularly celebrated in Maharashtra, friends and family come together to worship Lord Ganesha for 11 days in other parts of the country too. This year, the festival starts on September 7 and will go on till September 18 as Mumbaikars get ready, Goans, Himachalis and even Keralites get ready for celebrations and Raheja is only one of them.

Sindhi delicacies for Ganeshotsav
The beauty of the festival is that even though it is primarily a Hindu festival, it is celebrated by everybody around. With India being such a vast country, the food and cultural traditions also vary and with that, the food and drink made for each festival. While Maharashtrians from the western state make modaks for the festival, Raheja's sev barfi is a testament to the different sweets that are made beyond the traditional modak by people.

Being from the Sindhi community, ⁠Ganesh Chaturthi has grown up celebrating the festival in Mumbai. He shares, "It is a celebration that is deeply rooted in our cherished childhood memories. Growing up, the highlight of the festival was always the food. From meticulously planning the sweets to planning each meal and snack, every dish was made with love and attention to detail." Apart from using eco-friendly materials, the celebrations at the Raheja home have always been marked by a personal touch including every dish made at home, reflecting their rich traditions.

Beyond the modak, the family that also runs ‘Spicy Sindhi', their family-run home chef enterprise, says they also make several other traditional savoury dishes. "Our festive spread includes a variety of traditional Sindhi dishes that bring comfort and joy to our gatherings. We prepare dal pakwan, a crispy and savoury delight, along with the flavourful Sindhi curry-rice and nutritious sai bhaaji. These dishes not only honour our heritage but also add a touch of home to every celebration." As an extension of the festivities, they have also included all these dishes on their menu.

Also Read: From oats nachani modak to avocado kheer: Make the unique healthy sweets this Ganeshotsav

Himachali food for Ganeshotsav
Growing up in Himachal Pradesh, chef Arun Kumar at Araiya Palampur, has celebrated Ganesh Chaturthi uniquely, and he has understood it on a much closer level after he became a chef as it is deeply rooted in culture and tradition. Kumar says even though it may not be as widely observed in the state, as in some other parts of India, the festival is usually observed in a more localised and traditional manner, reflecting the region's unique customs."

While people set up eco-friendly Lord Ganesha's idols in their homes and temples and decorate their houses, they also come together as a community and even host cultural activities. They also make offerings with fruits, flowers and other kinds of food. He says, "The preparation of food during Ganesh Chaturthi involves a ritualistic approach, where every dish is made with meticulous attention to detail. For instance, steaming Patande reflects the purity and simplicity often sought in festive offerings. The act of cooking itself becomes a form of worship, with each dish prepared as a symbol of devotion and respect. For a sacred offering to lord Shree Ganesha, it is paired with toasted poppy seeds, jaggery, and cream."

While the modak is made and the patande is a special offering, many other sweet dishes are made for the festival. He shares, "We also make Gur ki Gajjak, a type of brittle made from jaggery and sesame seeds; kheer, which is an amaranth millet pudding cooked with milk, sugar, and flavoured with cardamom and garnished with nuts and dried fruits. It is a popular dessert during many festivals, including Ganesh Chaturthi. We also make other kinds of ladoos from gram flour or wheat flour. Last but not least, we also make panjeeri, a sweet made from whole wheat flour, ghee, sugar, and nuts. It's nutritious and has a slightly grainy texture." Just like Raheja, Kumar also makes several savoury dishes such as Poori and Aloo ki Sabzi, Channa Dal Tikki, Khichdi and Kachori too.

Celebrating Ganeshotsav in Maharashtra and Goa
Closer home in Mumbai, Maharashtra and the neighbours, beyond the classic Maharashtrian delicacy of modaks, chef Ruffy Shaikh, senior sous chef, ITC Grand Central in Parel, there are quite a few different dishes that are made for the festival. He explains, "In Maharashtra, we also make puran poli, which is a traditional chapati filled with jaggery and chana dal-based sweet lentil filling. It is another popular dish during Ganesh Chaturthi, which is typically served with ghee."

On the other hand, Hindus in Kerala who worship Lord Ganesha also make Paal Payasam. He explains, "It is prepared using rice, milk, and sugar and cooked gently to a creamy texture. Cardamom adds flavour to the dish, and roasted cashews and raisins are frequently added as a garnish. Paal Payasam, especially in Kerala, is a unique occasion in many South Indian homes during Ganesh Chaturthi. This dish represents the nurturing properties of milk." With such proximity to Goa, he says Hindus in Goa also make patoli. "It is made by spreading rice flour batter over turmeric leaves, stuffing them with grated coconut and jaggery, and then steam-baking them. The meal has a distinct scent that comes from the turmeric leaves. It is customarily made for Ganesh Chaturthi and represents purity and devotion. Turmeric leaves are said to be lucky," he adds.

Apart from the modak and patoli, there is a lot more to the way Goans celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi.

Also Read: From chocolate modak to shrikhand tart, here are innovative recipes to try this festive season

A spokesperson with Goa Tourism, says during Ganesh Chaturthi the markets are abuzz with vibrant stalls selling intricately crafted Ganesha idols, colourful makhars, and an assortment of traditional Chaturthi snacks, filling the air with an atmosphere of festivity and devotion. The festival is also an integral part of Goa's cultural heritage and serves as a unifying force for family reunions and social gatherings.

While the modak makes an appearance among the sweet treats, the spokesperson explains, "We also make a sweet called Nevri, which is a deep-fried pastry stuffed with a sweet filling of semolina, coconut, and jaggery. We also make Shankarpali, which is a crispy, diamond-shaped biscuit made from flour and sugar, often enjoyed during the festival. Last but not the least is Payas, another creamy dessert made from rice, coconut milk, and sugar, which rounds out the selection with its rich, comforting flavour."

It is not only the sweet dishes but also the savoury dishes that play a significant role in the festivities. "The savoury dishes include Khatkhatem, a mixed vegetable stew simmered with coconut and spices, offering a hearty and tangy contrast to the sweets. Moong Gathi is another dish made with sprouted moong beans, flavoured with coconut and spices, and provides a nutritious and flavourful option. These dishes not only complement the sweets but also reflect the diversity of Goan culinary traditions."

In the process, the tourism board highlights how these dishes hold deep cultural significance, symbolising prosperity, devotion, and the abundance of nature. While the modak is particularly revered as it is considered Lord Ganesha's favourite, symbolising his fondness for sweets and the joy he brings, Khatkhatem represents the diversity and richness of Goan agricultural produce. The Moong Gathi reflects the region's emphasis on nutritious and locally sourced ingredients. Even though these are some of the traditional sweets, they have evolved to include modern variations, such as chocolate modaks. However, the essence of these traditional dishes remains rooted in age-old practices, says the spokesperson. "The use of local, seasonal ingredients continues to play a crucial role in preserving these culinary traditions while adapting to contemporary tastes," they conclude.