From citrus to pepper: How rum is evolving in India and why the future lies in premium, distinctive flavour

Rum, a perennial favourite of many, is making a significant impact at a time when gin is enjoying its moment. Interesting enough, the sweet yet robust spirit has been enjoyed for many years by everybody in the traditional Rum 'N' Coke, which even forced restaurants to put it on their menu. It has been popularised as dark rum, but is also available in a white variation. But that is changing. To tantalise their taste buds with a variety of flavours, people are stepping outside of the conventional selections.

Every year, World Rum Day is celebrated on July 8 to celebrate the spirit. With monsoon here, hardly anyone sticks to one day to celebrate rum? When one talks about the popularity of rum in India, Old Monk has always been a favourite; for most loyalists, it is a symbol of pride, even though several variants have been made over the years, not only because of flavour but also because of its affordability. However, the rum market is experiencing a change. It is one that has occurred over the last three years as homegrown brands have sprouted in different parts of the country including Goa and Chandigarh, with some of them being Maka Zai, Rock Paper Rum, Earth Rum and Camikara, among others. They are aiming to cater to the evolved palate of drinkers, not only at home, but also in restaurants.

From Goa with love
For Kasturi Banerjee, founder and director of Stilldistilling Spirits, creating Maka Zai rum was natural because she always had a keen interest in wine and spirits. So, in 2019, she decided to do something about it. She explains, "I decided to pursue a bartending course to fully immerse myself in the art of mixology. Through this experience, I learned more about the history of India's alco-bev industry. As I delved deeper into the subject, my curiosity grew, leading me to experiment with blends and conduct research to understand emerging trends and consumer preferences in the space."

Even though gin was gaining popularity at the time, Banerjee was curious about the artisanal rum market because of the "undercurrents taking place globally and India's abundance of sugarcane, which acts as the foundation for any great rum". Finally, she started Maka Zai rum in January 2021. "Rum's versatility fascinated me, and there was a significant market opportunity within the premium rum category. In my opinion, a rum revolution was on the horizon," she adds. And that is how Maka Zai was born, the name is inspired from its birthplace, as 'Maka Zai' means 'I want' in the Konkani language, spoken in Goa.

Even as she is part of the change for rum in India, Banerjee gives due credit to the gin revolution for opening up the tastes of drinkers today. She explains, "Today's consumer is very discerning and open to experimentation - to a large extent, we can thank the gin revolution for this. People want to try new home-grown spirits and are more open to trying unique cocktail serves." However, she is quick to admit that it is still in the nascent stage, and it only be a matter of time before India catches up to the global market, as six have been launched this year itself.

This evolution, Banerjee says, has also changed the perception of rum being viewed as a non-premium drink, that always requires a mixer and drunk by novice drinkers. However, that like she believes is slowly changing, especially for the well-travelled consumer and those who have the spending capacity. "The success of Indian rum today is reflected in the categories - white, spiced, gold, dark, and matured, that cater to the evolving palates of drinkers." In her observation, earlier, the consumer preferred to drink rum in the form of a mojito but these days, they also want to taste it neat, just like whiskey, and that speaks volumes.

Today, Maka Zai has three variants. Banerjee explains, "We have created a cocktail-focused White Rum (Bartender's Edition) packed with tropical flavours ranging from sweet and floral to spicy and herbaceous." They also have an aged Gold Rum (Tribute Edition), which is an elegant sipping rum, which Banerjee says is the first of its kind in India. "The flavour profile reveals hints of praline, dry dates, figs, caramel, cinnamon and honey. It also has a creamy mouthfeel and a well-rounded vanilla accent." They have even taken it a step further and already launched their first limited-release barrel-aged rare rum, ‘MESMA,' to mark their second anniversary. It has a flavour profile of citrus, vanilla, apricot, oak and cocoa," she adds and also shares how their bottle design has also been instrumental to change the perception.

Sustainability and rum
It is no different for Earth Rum, another Goa-based brand, which launched only in 2022. One year on, they are confident about the evolving palate of consumers. Sachin Bhamri, founder of Surbhi Beverages, which makes the rum, says, "We have witnessed rum evolving as a spirit with a growing emphasis on unique flavour profiles and artisanal craftsmanship. Consumers are increasingly seeking distinctive and quality-driven spirits, and rum has adapted to cater to these changing preferences."

With the focus on unique flavour profiles, Bhamri says the rum made by them has a wide range of flavours like cinnamon, star anise, pepper, and clove, which create a well-rounded explosion of spices in every sip. Along with uniqueness, it also has a subtle balance, with refreshing clove and amber undertones, complemented by hints of vanilla and chocolate flavours. This wide flavour profile is also why there has been a change in the consumption of the traditionally dark spirit in India, according to him. "While classics like Old Monk continue to have a special place, there is a growing appreciation for a wider range of flavours, premium offerings, and craft spirits. Consumers are now exploring diverse options, showing an openness to new taste experiences," highlights Bhamri. It is also something this writer has seen happen with the growing trend of bar takeovers in Mumbai, that witnesses an overflowing crowd, who want to experiment with new flavours in their cocktails and spirits.

Bhamri agrees with Banerjee saying that while gin is experiencing a surge in popularity, rum still continues to hold a significant position in the market. "With its versatility and rich history, rum offers a wide range of flavour profiles and serves as a preferred choice for many consumers. As the industry evolves, rum has the potential to further diversify and innovate to cater to changing preferences," explains the founder of Earth Rum, which currently boasts of their flagship variant, Earth Rustic Spiced Rum. There are also two other variants - Gold and Coffee, which are intended to cater to a more diverse palate. While the Gold variant adds richness and complexity, Bhamri says, the Coffee variant infuses the spirit with aromatic notes and a unique twist.

While flavour is their essence, Earth Rum, which takes inspiration from the Earth, and that's why the name, to show their appreciation, also wants to do more than the name, and that's why they have taken the sustainability approach, not only with their packaging but also their entire operations. "From carbon-negative distilling and bottling processes to using biodegradable, zero-waste, and ethically sourced materials in our packaging, we are committed to minimising our environmental impact," shares Bhamri. They have also been engaging in eco-friendly initiatives and advocate for climate change movements. It is also what the founder has said resonates with people, apart from the unique flavours.

All in the age and juice
It is also an aspect of rum that Siddharth Sharma, promoter and founder of Piccadilly Distilleries believes in. In the flurry of the last two years, there has not only been Maka Zai and Earth Rum but also Camikara produced by the distillery, which also produces their flagship single malt whisky called ‘Indri', the name of the village where it is located. Sharma explains, "The rum is produced using locally grown sugarcane, which has been a part of Indian culture for thousands of years. While India is the largest producer of sugarcane in the world, it has not yet explored the production of a premium cane juice rum." The rum, he says, is made from the highest quality of indigenous variety of sugar cane from northern plains of India.

In only two years, Camikara has already won accolades after it became the first and only Indian rum to ever win a gold medal at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) in March 2023 with 95 points. The Haryana-based distillery calls Camikara India's only rum to be produced from pure sugarcane juice because unlike others that use the molasses, this only uses the juice. So, what really is the difference? Sharma explains, "The simple difference between molasses and cane juice rum is that molasses rums are produced from fermenting molasses (an industrial by product of sugar production), resulting in a sweeter, rounder, and usually darker rum while cane juice rum is made directly from the freshly pressed sugarcane juice yielding a much more vegetal, savoury, and lighter final product.

Sharma says the intent behind creating the premium cane juice rum is to challenge the traditional preferences for whisky over rum in India. He explains, "The rum undergoes a unique aging process, maturing for an impressive 12 years, a rarity among Indian rums. This extended aging period contributes to a sophisticated and complex flavour profile, enhanced by the use of oak barrels to foster the development of rich flavours and enticing aromas. However, due to this aging process, only 6.6 per cent of the original volume remains, while the remaining 94.4 per cent dissipates into the air, affectionately known as the ‘angel's share'."

The name ‘Camikara' is derived from a Sanskrit word meaning ‘liquid gold'." Aged for 12 years in American oak casks, it is also a limited-edition rum that bottled at a strength of 50 per cent ABV. Sharma says that it has no added colour, caramel, sugar or flavours, making it a 100 per cent naturally aged rum. "On the nose, you are greeted with a bouquet of aromas - honey, ginger, toffee, raisin, prunes and leather. A deeper whiff reveals the wood. The first sip brings a marriage of honey, vanilla and bitter chocolate. Further savouring reveals ripe bananas, orange peels, dark chocolate and charred wood. When you put down the glass, you will be led with the satiety of enjoying a delicious fruit cake," Sharma explains.

With such unique flavours, at a time when gin is gaining popularity, Sharma is on a different path. He wants to change the perception around drinking rum, as he believes Indian consumers have had a strong preference for spirits like whisky and brandy in brown spirits but that is slowly changing; he owes that to changing lifestyle, increased disposable incomes and an evolving drinking culture. He explains, "There has been a notable shift in recent years, with a growing interest in other spirits, including rum. As consumers become more discerning and seek unique taste experiences, their palate has evolved to appreciate a broader range of flavours, including those found in premium and craft rums. Indian consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about spirits and are seeking out rums with complex flavours, unique aging processes and higher quality ingredients."

The fact that Camikara has won the gold at IWSC 2023 has only highlighted the quality of rum coming out of India in the last few years. Each and every kind is instrumental in catering to the diverse palate of drinkers today. While Sharma says the win is overwhelming and evokes excitement for their efforts, it also showcases how India's recent rum revolution is able to compete with global standards. "We wish that cane juice spirit will be seen in a different light with many more new age distillers championing the cause of Indian rums, creating a category which will be able to challenge any rum from any global region," he shares.

Enjoying premium rum with food
All this talk about rum is good but even as people enjoy the spirit, their palates will want some more. However, Sharma says as a sipping rum, it is ideal to not pair it with any kind of food and mixer, so that it can be enjoyed neat. Bhamri and Banerjee are of a different opinion. Even though they endorse drinking it plain, they say different kinds of food can be paired with Earth Rum and Maka Zai.

Bhamri suggests, "Earth rum pairs well with a variety of flavours. It can be enjoyed with rich Mughlai rarities, bread, fish or anything cheesy, providing a breezy dining experience. For a refreshing drink, you can try mixing it with ginger ale or cola, adding a delightful twist to classic cocktails like the Dark and Stormy or the Rum Punch. The versatile flavour profile of Earth Rum makes it a great companion for various culinary delights."

"Maka Zai rums goes well with a range of food items, both sweet and savoury. The Maka Zai white rum pairs very well with lighter flavours such as smoked salmon and feta salad. The Maka Zai gold rum truly shines when enjoyed alongside bolder flavours, such as lamb chops, steak, and tandoori chicken. In terms of desserts, ice creams make for an excellent pairing. We recommend trying lemon and kafir lime ice cream with Maka Zai White, and Dark chocolate apricot with Maka Zai Gold," Banerjee concludes.

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