His last dance

Rohit Bal returned to the runway last month, a year after his health scare. He was joined by actor Ananya Pandey, to close the grand finale of Lakme Fashion Week. PIC/Fashion Design Council of India

As Indian fashion emerged on the global stage in the late 20th century, it evolved into two distinct design philosophies: one that embraced soft silhouettes and delicate textures, and another that boldly celebrated flamboyant expressions of sexuality.

Rohit Bal, the leading light of the latter movement, has passed away at the age of 63, leaving behind a legacy that profoundly shaped the industry. His work not only defined glamour but also infused tradition with modernity, creating a lasting impact on how Indian fashion is perceived globally.

I was fortunate to witness his last show, Kaaynaat, as part of the Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI grand finale at Delhi's Imperial Hotel on October 13. Over 50 models stood ready backstage, echoing the excitement that only Bal could inspire. As applause swelled, it signalled the beginning of a night to resonate long after.

Bal had a unique gift for infusing emotion into his designs, often breaking away from traditional runway formats with a sense of joy and spontaneity that felt refreshing. Even as he faced health challenges, he maintained his tradition of watching the magic unfold from the sidelines.

Kaaynaat, like the rest of his blockbuster shows, was more than just a grand finale; it was a celebration of heritage and modernity, a masterclass in how to honour tradition while embracing contemporary sensibilities. Bal's designs explored themes of identity and femininity, reflecting his long-standing engagement with the political dimensions of dress.

As Bal took his final bow, flanked by model Sheetal Mallar, actor Ananya Pandey, and long-time friend Lalit Tehlan, the moment was both bittersweet and deeply poignant. The atmosphere was electric, with fashion's protean talent, Gudda, breaking into a dance to INXS's Afterglow - a beautiful tribute to Bal's remarkable three-decade journey.

Rohit Bal's legacy will forever inspire, reminding us of the beauty and magic he brought to the world of fashion, as well as the heartfelt connections he fostered through his art.