Gudda’s last bow: Remembering Rohit Bal’s timeless impact on fashion

Rohit Bal, affectionately known as "Gudda," was a revolutionary force in Indian fashion - a designer who didn't just create garments but crafted a visual language that redefined what Indian couture could be. His passing leaves a void in the fashion world, but his legacy lives on through his deeply influential work, which merged centuries-old traditions with an unapologetically modern spirit.

Bal's designs were more than clothing; they were narratives. Each collection told a story of Indian identity, honouring our cultural heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. In an industry where trends can fade in an instant, Bal's work remains timeless, forever imprinted on the psyche of Indian fashion.

A legacy carved in craftsmanship and culture

At a time when global fashion was dominated by Western aesthetics, Bal championed India's own intricate craftsmanship. His work celebrated traditional handwork, from delicate embroidery to hand-woven textiles, often collaborating with artisans who brought his vision to life. His collections were filled with cultural motifs, lotuses, peacocks, and Mughal-inspired floral patterns that paid homage to India's rich artistic legacy, while his modern cuts and silhouettes made them relevant to today's world.

Bal's take on the classic "angrakha" silhouette, for instance, transformed the garment into something bold, opulent, and unmistakably Indian. He brought age old regal styles into the present, infusing his pieces with a sophistication that made them just as likely to appear on the runway in Paris as at a wedding in Jaipur. His designs bridged the gap between the past and future, creating a distinctly Indian narrative that resonates around the world.

Global recognition and redefining Indian fashion on the world stage

Bal's genius was not confined to India's borders. He was among the first Indian designers to make an impact on the global stage, showcasing his collections in Paris, London, and New York, where his work was celebrated for its authenticity and depth. His shows were not just displays of fashion; they were cultural dialogues. For instance, at New York Fashion Week, his presentation highlighted the splendour of Indian craftsmanship, drawing attention to the fact that India's textiles and artisans were worthy of global acclaim.

His international acclaim helped elevate Indian fashion to a new level, proving that the world was ready and eager to embrace India's aesthetics. Bal showed Western audiences that Indian fashion was not simply a niche; it was a force, rich with stories and steeped in beauty. This international recognition helped pave the way for Indian designers to gain global traction, leaving behind a legacy that others could build on.

Fashion as art and expression: beyond trends

Rohit Bal was one of the few designers who viewed fashion as an art form rather than a commercial enterprise. His collections were never just about the season's latest trends. Instead, he explored deeper themes, using fashion as a medium for expression. Take his "Kashmiriyat" collection, which was a tribute to his roots in Kashmir. In it, he wove together the symbols and stories of the Valley, blending nostalgia and artistry to create a collection that was as poetic as it was powerful.

His famed "Gulbagh" collection, rich with florals and inspired by Mughal gardens, is another example of his thematic approach. Through fabrics and forms, he presented a vision of India that was lush, romantic, and unapologetically Indian. Bal used his collections to highlight the heritage of various regions, promoting Indian art forms like ‘zardozi,' ‘gota patti,' and ‘chikankari' to new audiences, and creating renewed appreciation for the centuries-old techniques.

ALSO READ: Do housewives find a sense of belonging in their roles?

Memories from the industry: Tahir Shabbir remembers Bal's magic

Actor Tahir Shabbir, who had the honour of wearing Bal's creations, shared touching memories that capture the essence of Bal's influence. "Rohit's designs made you feel like you were draped in a piece of India's history," he recalled. "There was a depth to his work that went beyond fashion. When I put on one of his pieces, it was like stepping into a story, one that connected me to something much larger than myself."

Shabbir further reflected on Bal's unique ability to fuse elegance with a sense of rootedness. "Rohit understood the Indian spirit like no one else. He could take the simplest elements - a lotus, a peacock feather, the richness of Kanjeevaram and turn them into something ethereal. Every outfit carried his warmth and energy. For those of us who wore his designs, it wasn't just about looking good; it was about feeling a part of his artistic vision."

As Shabbir described it, "His passing feels like a collective loss, not only for the fashion industry but for all of us who found ourselves in his creations. He gave us pride in who we are and showed us what Indian design could achieve on a global stage."

Bal's spirit of generosity and influence on the next generation

Beyond his breathtaking work, Rohit Bal was known for his generosity within the fashion industry. Young designers remember his encouragement, his readiness to offer advice, and his belief in sharing knowledge freely. His legacy is visible in the work of a new generation of designers who see him as a mentor, guiding them not just in style but in character.

Many recall moments when Bal would drop into design schools to offer spontaneous advice to students or speak at fashion events where he would generously share his insights and visions. He was not just a designer but a teacher and a mentor who understood that building an industry meant uplifting everyone around him.

Honouring a lasting legacy

Rohit Bal's passing is a profound loss, not only for those who knew him personally but for everyone who loves Indian fashion. His contributions are timeless; he gave us a new way to look at our own heritage and inspired pride in our cultural identity. His legacy is etched in every intricate motif, every grand silhouette, and every piece of Indian couture that now walks the world's runways.

Bal's contributions weren't limited to fashion. His identity and advocacy for LGBTQ+ representation in a conservative society left a lasting impact. He openly embraced his sexuality and condemned stereotypical portrayals in Bollywood, striving for nuanced, authentic representation.

In the words of his dear friend Suvir Saran, Gudda - Rohit Bal's cherished nickname - was more than just a fashion icon; he was a lifeline for many, especially those navigating their identities in an era when few openly gay figures existed in India. Saran, who met Bal at the tender age of 14, recounts the profound impact Gudda had on his life, offering him warmth, comfort, and an inspiring sense of freedom. Their bond remained strong over nearly four decades, with Gudda becoming a constant source of strength during Saran's most trying times.

Saran vividly recalls Gudda's humour, their shared confidences, and the gentle support Gudda offered even as his own health declined. Bal's warmth extended beyond friendship, embodying the essence of Indian hospitality, inviting people into his world, and encouraging others to express their truths.

In his final days, Bal's humour remained intact. Even as he battled illness, he complimented Saran's colourful attire, embodying his eternally stylish, generous spirit. Moments after Saran left his hospital room, Gudda peacefully passed away, a bittersweet farewell that still resonates deeply. Reflecting on his friend's life, Saran honours Gudda's legacy, not with sorrow but with gratitude for a relationship as unique as the designer himself.

As we look back on his journey, we invite readers to reflect on how his work has transformed not just fashion but the way we view ourselves. Rohit Bal's vision was bold, beautiful, and boundless, and it is one that will inspire Indian couture for generations to come.