From Kim K to Madonna, glam queens adopt LED light skincare therapy, here’s why

Acne, blemishes, and sunburn are common skin problems that spare none. Similar was the case of Mumbai-based Rupali Porwal, 25, whose face was the stuff of an acne-filled turf. Upon a visit to her beauty therapist, she was diagnosed with perioral dermatitis (inflammation of the skin around the mouth). Troubled by the pink patches around her mouth, Porwal signed up for LED light therapy that her dermatologist recommended.

In a conversation with Midday.com, she shares, "I went through a 10-session round of red LED light treatment a bit over a year ago for perioral dermatitis (which I've had for years). I needed to get rid of the excessive redness that scarred my looks. Post the 10 sessions, I did two sessions a week as well. I was gobsmacked by the results. It actually worked wonders for me!"

She did the treatments in conjunction with retinoids that helped her repair the skin barrier in the affected areas. "I haven't had a breakout of perioral dermatitis since. The other neat side effect of the treatments is that they are super relaxing to sit through. Treatment lasts about 10-15 minutes only. However, in that duration, you feel yourself unwinding as the weightless light traverses your skin," she adds.

What is LED Light Therapy?
LED (Light-emitting diode) therapy also known as phototherapy or low-level light therapy (LLLT), is a non-invasive medical treatment that uses specific wavelengths of light to stimulate cellular function and promote healing. Glamour queens from Kim Kardashian to Madonna, Drew Barrymore to Victoria Beckham have evolved their skincare regimes to actively adopt this therapy.

The therapy involves exposing the skin to different colors of LED light to achieve various therapeutic effects. The primary colors used in LED light therapy are red, blue, yellow and near-infrared (NIR). To dig more into this new-age skincare treatment, Midday.com spoke Dr Rashmi Shetty, a cosmetic dermatologist from Ra Skin & Aesthetics, Mumbai. She highlights the different skin issues that can be tackled with LED light therapy:

Types of skin problems that can be addressed with LED light therapy:

Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Often due to ageing and repetitive facial expressions, our skin tends to develop stubborn fine lines and prominent folds. To tackle this issue, red light LED therapy stimulates collagen production, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles thereby promoting smoother skin.

Acne and Blemishes: People with large pores are prone to dirt trapped in their skin. This in turn, gives rise to regular acne that are not easy to get rid of. Blue light LED therapy targets and kills acne-causing bacteria, helping to reduce breakouts and inflammation associated with acne.

Uneven Skin Tone and Hyperpigmentation: Facial geography can entail pigmentation issues giving rise to the presence of light and dark shades. Green light LED therapy can help reduce the production of melanin, making it effective in minimizing dark spots and promoting a more even skin tone.

Redness and Inflammation: Like Porwal's perioral dermatitis, the incidence of Rosacea - an inflammatory skin condition that causes reddened skin and a rash on the nose and cheeks, is also quite common. Yellow light LED therapy has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe redness and irritation in the skin, making it suitable for individuals with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

Sun Damage and Age Spots: For people who are exposed to sunrays, the chances of sun damage escalate. This is true in the case of sportspersons, army personnel, and even actors. Different wavelengths of LED light can help to address various signs of sun damage including age spots, pigmentation and sunspots.

Scarring and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: While the injury goes away, the scars remain ruining the overall skin texture. LED light therapy, particularly near-infrared light, may assist in reducing the appearance of scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

So, what are the different kinds of LED light therapy?
LED light therapy makes use of different light wavelengths that correspond to colours visible to the naked eye. Each light penetrates the skin at different layers to target the problems:

Red Light
Red light therapy is commonly used to promote collagen production, reduce inflammation, and enhance overall skin rejuvenation. It is also believed to aid in wound healing and help with conditions like acne, rosacea, and fine lines. Undertaking this therapy boosts skin's elasticity and results in glowing skin.

Blue Light
Blue light therapy is primarily used to target and kill the bacteria responsible for causing acne. It is effective for treating mild to moderate acne and can be an alternative for those who do not respond well to traditional acne medications.

Yellow Light
Yellow light therapy triggers the lymphatic system to remove toxins from the exposed area. In addition, it increases blood circulation which improves wound healing and increases the skin's ability to retain moisture. It keeps the skin hydrated and amplifies your skincare regimen.

Near-Infrared Light
Near-infrared light penetrates deeper into the skin and is believed to have various therapeutic effects, such as improving circulation, reducing pain and inflammation, and enhancing tissue repair and recovery.

Rundown of the procedure
LED light therapy is a non-invasive and straightforward procedure that can be conducted in various settings. Dr Shetty shares an overview of how an LED light therapy session is typically conducted. Before the treatment, the client's skin is cleansed and any makeup, dirt, or oil is removed to ensure proper light penetration.

In order to protect the eyes from the bright LED light, the client is provided with special goggles or eye shields. Next, the LED light therapy device, emitting the specific color of light suitable for the client's skin concern, is placed a few inches away from the skin's surface. Then, the light is exposed to damaged areas for a specific duration depending upon the skin problem.

The duration of the session can vary depending on the specific LED light used and the skin concern being addressed. Typically, a session lasts anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes. During the session, the client can relax comfortably while the LED light penetrates the skin and stimulates cellular activity. After the treatment, there is generally no downtime, and clients can immediately resume their regular activities.

Some skincare professionals may recommend applying a soothing or hydrating product to the skin after the treatment.

Recommended Frequency: To achieve optimal results, a series of LED light therapy sessions may be recommended, usually spaced a few days to a week apart, depending on the skin's concern and individual needs.

Cost: Generally, the cost of a single session of LED light therapy in India can range from INR 10,000 to INR 25,000 or more. However, prices may be different for different types of LED light therapy, and packages or discounts may be available for multiple sessions.

How effective is LED light therapy?
While Porwal benefitted substantially from the therapy, 28-year-old Prajakta Talathi was fairly disappointed with the results. "I underwent blue light therapy to treat my acne breakout that wouldn't go away. The dermatologist claimed that it will kill the bacteria on my face and clear my skin. However, after 4-6 sessions, I had negligible changes, and to top it off, I ended up wasting huge amounts of money and time. What really did solve my problem was a cheap tretinoin cream."

While LED light therapy can be effective for some skin concerns, it may not produce dramatic results for all individuals or conditions. It's essential to consult with a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist to determine if LED light therapy is suitable for your specific needs and to ensure its safe and proper use. Additionally, the effectiveness of LED light therapy may vary for different individuals, and multiple sessions may be required to see noticeable results.

In order for LED light therapy to be efficient, the treatment requires uniformity - informs Dr Shetty. Her patient Tulika Gulati shares, "I've experienced great results with LED! I have acne-prone skin and sometimes get dermatitis flare-ups too. LED paired with peels and skin needling healed my skin barrier, kills bacteria and calms down inflammation. You do need to be consistent though, a once-off treatment won't get you too far at all."

With science & technology soaring to new heights in skincare & dermatology, there are now a number of portable LED light therapy devices available in the form of masks, panels, wands, etc. While these may be convenient, there are a few reasons why the LED Light Therapy machines at a doctor's clinic may be considered more efficient.

The number of bulbs available in a portable device vs. one at a clinic would differ by a substantial margin. The surface area that at-home devices may cover would also differ as the technology at a doctor's office would be more sophisticated. Lastly, LED Light Therapy is not a skincare tool that one can use on a whim or jump on the bandwagon of a trend. Different colors treat different concerns which are best diagnosed by a professional.

While LED Light Therapy does deliver efficacy, lasers are now at the top of their game in the field of skincare. While both require repetitive sessions, LED Light Therapy is slowly becoming a way of life. Although LED Light Therapy machines cover a larger surface area at once, the energy emitted by LEDs is comparatively lesser than lasers. As a result, lasers require fewer sessions than Light Therapy. However, it is always wise to consult an expert as different concerns call for different courses of action.

Potential benefits of LED light therapy
One of the primary advantages is its ability to promote skin rejuvenation and reduce the signs of ageing. Red light LED therapy stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, essential proteins that maintain skin elasticity and firmness. This leads to a visible reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.

Additionally, LED light therapy's non-invasive nature makes it a safe option for individuals seeking skin rejuvenation without the risks associated with more aggressive procedures like lasers or chemical peels. Experts deem this therapy safe and painless as it doesn't involve any ultraviolet radiation, making it suitable for all skin types.

It is often used in dermatology clinics, medical spas, and home-based devices. Treatment sessions can vary in duration, but they are generally short, ranging from a few minutes to half an hour, depending on the condition being treated and the specific LED device used. Its versatility, safety, and effectiveness have positioned LED light therapy as a popular and valuable tool for achieving healthier, more vibrant skin.

Another significant benefit of LED light therapy is its efficacy in treating stubborn acne and improving overall skin tone. It can be a particularly effective option for individuals with mild to moderate acne who want a non-pharmaceutical and non-invasive solution. The treatment also helps in regulating sebum production, reducing the appearance of pores, and improving skin texture.

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