Facial serums and oils: When and how to use these trendy skincare products?

Indians are no more hesitant of using multiple skincare products as part of their regular skincare routine. According to the data published on Satista, a survey carried out by ProdegeMR in 2019 revealed that around 43.9 per cent of respondents stated that they spent up to Rs 700 on cosmetics and around 19 per cent were ready to spend up to 1,700 rupees on such products in a month.

Amid the gamut of products, skin care enthusiasts in India are increasingly talking about niacinamide, retinol, salicylic acid serums or tea tree, neem and lavender oils. Some of which have also been touted to be the "holy grail" for skincare, such as the niacinamide based serums. With a slew of brands marketing facial serums and essential oils with similar packaging and strategies, the information on their benefits can puzzle many about the difference between the two and their correct usage.

According to experts, Dr Roshni Mishra, MD (DVL), MBBS, consulting dermatologist at Kaya and Dr Kaustav Guha, director, R&D division, SkinKraft Labs, serums are lightweight water-based products consisting ingredients, which cater to specific skin concerns and issues. Whereas, essential-oils are thicker with heavy molecules and help in nourishing, protecting and moisturising the skin.

Serums provide better penetration, absorption and are applied right after cleansing and before using a moisturiser, whereas oils need some carrier before their application and hence, should be applied after using a moisturiser.

Usage based on seasons and skin conditions
The usage of serums and oils is mainly determined by skin type and condition, while age is also considered as one of the factors in specific cases. Experts say these products should be used mainly after the age of 20. However, facial oils can be beneficial for both early and ageing adults as they enhance the skin health through its moisturising and nourishing properties.

The active ingredients in the products also determine the suitable time to use certain products. Guha says, "If the products contain highly potent molecules such as retinol or collagen, they should only be used after 25 years of age. Ingredients like Hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C can be used after the 20s."

One can go about including both, facial oils and serums, in their regular skincare routine. Mishra says since serums can be useful for targeting wrinkles and fine lines and should be applied before the moisturiser, facial oil can be applied after moisturiser to lock the moisture right there into the skin. Guha is of the view that oils can also be used as moisturisers due to their emollient qualities.

One must be mindful of the seasonal variability and the impact of weather on their skin while using different serums or oils. While serums are safer to be used during all seasons due to their lightweight and easy absorption, Mishra says monsoon and summer are not the best time to use facial oils as humidity and sweat can cause breakouts in certain skin types.

"During monsoon, humidity can make the skin greasy. Also, high sebum production can also lead to acne, pigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Such oily skin also causes clogged pores, making it sticky. Hence, it is not advisable to use face oil during monsoon for those who have oily skin," adds Guha.

For people having dry skin, Mishra advises using a serum containing hyaluronic acid or Vitamin C and oils such as squalene; rosehip and jojoba oil can be useful. In case of oily skin, choose a serum or oil which contains sebum control actives. Retinol, niacinamide and two percent salicylic based serums, while tea tree essentials (low concentration) and jojoba oil can be helpful. For normal skin, one can use serums with hyaluronic acid serum, alpha arbutin, retinol and vitamin C. Facial oils such as jojoba and rosehip oil are usually helpful in normal skin.

According to Guha, for skin issues like skin ageing, one must opt for a serum or oil, which contains anti-ageing actives like antioxidants, retinol and peptides. Whereas, for skin darkening and dark spots, one must consider using a product with skin lightening actives like arbutin, niacinamide and vitamin C.

Key points to remember
1. It is crucial to check your skin type - dry, oily or combination - before going for a new skincare product.

2. If you have oily skin, try to stick to serums more than facial oils. For dry skin, both the serum and facial oil should be used.

3. Always check how your skin reacts to the products. Go for a patch test before you include it in your routine.

4. Make sure your face is damp before applying serum, especially the hyaluronic acid serum, as this requires moisture to penetrate properly into your skin. If not taken care of, it might cause dryness and breakouts.

5. If you have active acne conditions, avoid facial oils.

Also Read: Experts share tips on sporting a simple yet stylish ethnic look