Decoding the ‘cocktail’ dress code for women with designer Sawan Gandhi

Crafted in flowy silhouettes and elevated with the designer’s signature sequin embroidery, his new cocktail collection `Illume` is an ode to winter contours. Images/PR

A cocktail dress is among those rare fashion trends that make grand comebacks in every era. Legitimised by Vogue, it is generally defined as a woman's go-to attire for post-afternoon formal events, which also lets her be free and flexible.

A cocktail dress is a post-War Victorian concept that kept getting more desirable as women gained greater independence. Therefore, there is no one way of getting it right. Over the years, this soiree dress went through numerous transitions and gained prominence in the global fashion platform through its constant depiction in Hollywood movies, magazines, fashion shows, etc.

‘Dull, drama, glam'
Contemporary cocktail dresses in India, however, are an interesting mix of dull and drama. Thanks to Bollywood celeb weddings, chic dresses with a desi twist have gained massive popularity among young women who want to keep it subtle yet look glamorous on the days leading up to a wedding. Celebrity fashion designer Sawan Gandhi says, "When we think of cocktail attire, the first options that come to mind are a tuxedo or a gown. But with changing times, they are now being experimented with; where even a shimmer saree in bright colours is being opted for."

For Indian cocktail parties, Gandhi says, "Sequin dresses or even basic dresses with a shimmer element would fit the bill. However, monochromatic sarees and lehengas in dark, graded tones with scantily spread crystals twinkling over them can make for a slick yet glamorous ensemble."

A contemporary Indian number from Sawan Gandhi's new cocktail collection 'Illume' (left); a minimalistic yet gorgeous saree from the same collection (right). Photo Courtesy: Sawan Gandhi

‘Less is more'
While the cocktail attire has gone through many shifts and is still being experimented with in various cultures; the one aspect that has remained steady if not unaltered is the ‘less is more' approach. Therefore, Gandhi says, "When in doubt, stick to classics." This would mean opting for a classic black lehenga or an ombré grey full length skirt paired with a dark grey blouse and a black cape/long shrug or a plain sheer black saree with a shimmer element. He says a cocktail outfit in dark hues of blue, green and grey works best.

The designer recommends minimalistic accessorising for cocktail looks so as to allow the outfit to take centre stage. However, one piece of statement jewellery such as an earring or a bracelet or a ring paired with another dainty number could complement the look.

Trial and error
Gandhi, who has worked with celebrities like Madhuri Dixit and Alia Bhatt says, "Keep it simple and elegant." Cocktail attire is capable of doing wonders even when not experimented with a lot. However, it is important to have a few trials to understand what makes you feel confident. If you are a subtle dresser or are still learning the basics of soiree dressing, classics are a safe choice. Two obvious choices could be a saree or a long (not-too long) dress in dark hues and languid silhouettes or a midi dress with minimal yet elegant work over it.

Cocktail dresses as we know them today are a consequence of decades of transition and cross-culture mixture. Women today are known to make their own version of this trend depending on the time and theme of the soiree. Therefore, the scope for being inventive is wide. Starting out with basic, structured dresses which are not too much can help you ease into the process of picking up and pulling off a perfect cocktail look. And after you find your tone; a little drama wouldn't hurt!