Raksha Bandhan 2023: How rakhis have evolved from simple threads to jewellery pieces

It's that time of year again when striking red threads made from cotton or silk hanging from the make-shift stalls dominate Mumbai streets. It's the intricate designs on the rakhis that add a unique touch, making them extremely special. For Mumbaikar Natasha Pereira, the festival has always been a special one that she celebrates with her elder brother since they were children. She shares, "Since my brother is a pilot, I am on the lookout for a rakhi with a tiny plane on it. I have to make it special for my protector." In the past, she has also got him a FRIENDS-themed rakhi because they are both huge fans of the popular American sitcom.

Each year, Indians worldwide celebrate Raksha Bandhan during this time of the year, symbolising the protective connection between siblings. This isn't limited to those who are blood-related but also includes others of varying degrees including cousins, extended family, as well as those who share a close brother-sister bond, even between friends. This year, Raksha Bandhan falls on August 30, and like always sisters will be tying rakhis on their brother's hands, after which they wholeheartedly give them a gift in return. While one celebrates the occasion, it is fascinating to see how the rakhi have evolved over the years, and Pereira has been one to change with the times, as she sets about to look for the ‘right' one.

The 31-year-old explains, "Earlier as a child I would usually buy rakhis that fascinated me - like the pink coloured one or a very fancy one that wouldn't even count as a proper rakhi. As I grew up, I learned from my mother that it is supposed to be a ‘resham' or ‘silk' rakhi which is known to be the one tied for a stronger bond." Ever since then, her focus has been on the main purpose of this tradition and that is why she always looks for something meaningful or something that depicts her relationship with her brother. While the plastic versions never appealed to her, she would also opt for the cotton ones. Over the years, the kinds of rakhis have changed, and now more of them are becoming sustainable, which she says is a positive change.

"It's really good that people are moving towards sustainable rakhis because that means you are contributing towards taking care of the environment, and they still will have them with your desired designs, colours, and fancy ones," adds the Navi Mumbai resident.

Eco-friendly rakhis
Mumbai-based Baro Market has been amid it all and has seen and engaged with this very evolution. Aashini Shah, creative director of the online store explains, "There seems to be a noticeable shift towards sustainable rakhi designs in recent times. As environmental awareness grows and people become more conscious of their ecological footprint, many individuals are opting for rakhi designs that are crafted using eco-friendly materials and processes.". It is no different for Indian jewellery brand Sangeeta Boochra, which has incorporated one of these many unique designs by bringing its expertise to the table and giving the best of both worlds.

Understandably, Abhineet Boochra agrees with Aashini, because he says, "In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of environmental concerns. This has led to the emergence of eco-friendly rakhi designs made from sustainable materials and natural elements." This has also led them to commit to reducing the carbon footprint, especially for their customers who are environment conscious. "We manufacture eco-friendly rakhis made from materials like jute, paper, or natural fibres," he explains.

Riteek Boochra, who is the director of the company, and involved in the daily operations, believes the eco-friendly and sustainable rakhi designs are gaining popularity for several reasons. He elaborates, "The eco-friendly rakhis often use natural materials like jute, cotton, bamboo, and recycled paper. These materials are biodegradable and have a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic materials. They also lead to less waste, as they are designed to break down naturally over time. This aligns with the idea of reducing waste and promoting a circular economy."

The best part about eco-friendly rakhis is that even though they are eco-friendly, they do not compromise on design. The fact that they appeal to people, he says, is because they are artisanal and handmade by artisans using traditional techniques, which also means people are supporting local craftsmanship, which offers unique and personalised designs. Lastly, they also let people celebrate festivals sustainably, as there is more focus on the many elements of festivals causing pollution of different kinds.

Focus on tradition and art
Even as eco-friendly rakhi designs have taken over in recent years, the evolution of designs has come a long way from the time when people opted for the plain and simple. Aashini explains, "Over the years, there has been a fascinating evolution in rakhi designs. Traditional rakhi designs used to be simple, often consisting of a thread with a central decorative element. However, as time has progressed, rakhi designs have become more intricate and diverse."

There has also been an increased emphasis on using eco-friendly materials, she adds, along with sustainable practices while creating them, and thus becoming more culturally inclusive like incorporating elements from various regions and traditions, making them even more meaningful for a diverse range of recipients. At the Baro Market, they have extended this very philosophy and made ones that showcase Gond and Mandala art among other traditional art forms that speak volumes of India's rich diversity.

Shah believes it has mostly evolved because the designs have adopted modern sensibilities while still maintaining their traditional significance and embracing contemporary trends. "The evolution is evident through minimalistic elegance, where clean lines and subtle motifs cater to those who appreciate a refined aesthetic. We have seen a trend that people like rakhis that are also jewellery pieces and can be worn for all occasions, which is why the handcrafted rakhis that look like bracelets are in vogue."

She adds, "These days personalisation has taken centre-stage, allowing sisters to infuse their rakhi designs with names, initials, or even photos of their brothers, creating a unique bond. Incorporation of technology has also found its way, with LED lights, screens, and sound modules adding an interactive dimension to the traditional thread."

At Sangeeta Boochra, Abhineet and his team have incorporated one of these many unique designs by bringing their expertise in jewellery to the table. With the changing trends, they have kept the classic rakhi with a silk or cotton thread intact and added a central motif as silver and gemstone beads, with auspicious symbols, for those who like to keep it simple yet manage to hold one's attention. Abhineet says their rakhis have a jewellery element to them. They also cater to those who love cartoon elements.

He adds, "The rakhi designs have evolved due to changing trends, fashion, and preferences. It started with the use of innovative materials such as silk threads, satin ribbons, and even metals like silver and gold. These materials are used to create intricate designs, sometimes accompanied by small embellishments like pearls, gemstones, and sequins."

With the brother's name, initials, or even photographs embedded into the rakhi, it also became very personalised. Even as people got enamoured by cartoons and superheroes, Abhineet says there has been a shift to such theme-based designs that also include sports, and other interests of the recipient brother like that Pereira highlighted. At the same time, there have been more who have started to opt for modern rakhi designs featuring sleeker aesthetics, minimalist patterns, and a focus on elegance. "Handmade and artisanal rakhi designs have gained traction as people began to appreciate the craftsmanship and uniqueness of these creations. These include designs made from quilling, embroidery, and other crafting techniques," concludes Abhineet.