Matunga’s hidden gem: Parsi cafe weaves tales of history, cinema and Irani flavours

The historic city of South Bombay is endowed with traditional Parsi establishments. While most of them are clustered in the Fort and Churchgate region, the one that stands out is Koolar & Co. at Matunga. This unique cafe holds the distinction of being the sole eatery offering authentic Parsi food items within the vicinity of Dadar, Sion, Matunga, and neighbouring areas.

Located in one corner of King's Circle, the cafe appears run down at first glance. The convenient location of this place makes it easy to access despite rush hours. The traditional wooden furnishings that grace various Parsi establishments find their place here as well. Lofty ceilings, tables crowned with glass, and the graceful curvature of bentwood chairs combine to create an atmosphere of classic sophistication that effortlessly immerses us.

The old-world charm of Kooler & Co.

Upon entering, your eyes will inevitably be drawn to vintage relics like an antique telephone, lamp, and charming wall clock - all poised in a seemingly suspended state of time. The cafe's decor is further adorned with an array of vintage posters, including iconic figures like John Travolta from 'Grease' and the ever-talented Dolly Parton.

Among these relics is a poignant newspaper clipping chronicling the ill-fated sinking of the Titanic. Adding a touch of whimsy, clever one-liners from a soft drink company are painted as banners, further transporting patrons to an era that dates back two decades. A modest dessert counter holds an assortment of bakery delights like biscuits, khari, and mawa cakes.

Tracing the Parsi familial roots

Yazd is a 3,000-year-old province in Iran. It suffered a considerable amount of isolation from the country due to the Yazd Deserts which surrounded its area. Over time, this isolation triggered a transformation in residents of the province, making them industrious, hard-working and resilient.

Unsurprisingly, most Parsis share similar virtues since a considerable number of Zoroastrians, who migrated to India over the centuries, hail from this ancient city of Iran. At the turn of the 20th century, one such immigrant from Yazd, Mamush Koolar, migrated to Mumbai penniless and with hopes of leaving his imprint on the city. Little did he know that nearly a century later, his legacy would become one of the city's grandest cultural landmarks.

Accompanied by his three brothers, this migration was driven by dire circumstances. "Their father had passed away, and a severe famine had gripped Iran," shares his son Amir Khaon Koolarzade who runs the cafe with his brother, Ali. He narrates how his mother had recounted tales of villagers surviving on orchard grass due to the scarcity of food.

His grandmother was a woman of great pride who would perpetually keep a pot of water boiling on the stove to maintain the facade of abundance. Characteristics such as pride, diligence, determination, a sense of community, and even a touch of obstinacy are all traits that echo Iranians of different faiths - be the Zoroastrians, Shia Muslims from Yazd and Shiraz, or followers of the Baha'i faith. These Iranians have been an integral force propelling Bombay's street-based economy.

The current brother duo behind Kooler & Co.

Amir often playfully mentions to his customers that if he were to deceive them, he would give it away with a smile. While he may come across as a stern Irani gentleman stationed at the billing counter, there were numerous instances during our conversation when his eyes radiated warmth and enthusiasm.

Both Amir and Ali, wear the stressed-out appearance of people who have been fighting the establishment for their own survival for as long as they have lived. Bureaucracy, red-tape and license acquisition for their restaurant apart, Amir was also the man who made adopting trees legal in India - a battle that he fought in memory of his dead Rottweiler.

However, there is a style in the enormous personas of the jolly twosome, both of whom wear their hair long and dress in stylish pairs of jeans and t-shirts. Engage them in conversation, and they are the jolliest twosome you might ever bump into, with a treasure trove of trivia about Iran and the cultural impact that Iranis have had on India.

Notably, Koolar & Co. shares a silver screen connection as well - the cafe served as a backdrop for scenes in films such as Vaastav, Bardaasht, and Ram Gopal Varma's film, Department. However, fewer are aware of the cafe's profound association with one of Indian cinema's most iconic families.

Many decades ago, the Kapoor family resided near Matunga, partly accounting for RK Studios' presence in Chembur. They were frequent patrons of Koolar & Co., where the younger Kapoor siblings would engage in chats over Irani chai and brun maska. Amir fondly recollects that Prithviraj Kapoor possessed flawless diction in Persian, often reciting Persian poetry. Moreover, the café's furniture, a testament to the masterful craftsmanship of German artisans in 1932, has admirably stood the test of time since its first day of welcoming the public.

Positioning an Irani cafe at Matunga - A choice or luck by chance?

Nestled within the heart of a predominantly South Indian enclave, Koolar & Co.'s location might appear to be an unconventional choice, almost inflicting itself with many challenges. However, Amir offers a perspective that defies the conventional notion. "Contrary to expectations, a significant proportion of visitors to the local South Indian eateries aren't native to the South. Our culinary offerings are a novel experience for them. Interestingly, even South Indians who have moved away from Matunga continue to visit our cafe from places like Chembur, Dadar, and even Navi Mumbai."

Was it the outcome of a stroke of luck or a visionary restaurateur's foresight? Ali shares how his father came to choose Matunga as the foundation of this cafe. In the early 20th century, Mamush ventured into Mumbai, where he spent his initial years immersed in an array of odd jobs across various establishments, including washing dishes at fellow Irani restaurants.

His life was anchored in Dockyard and Marine Lines, locales that were once synonymous with the city's underbelly of crime. In partnership with his elder brother, Zafar Ali Koolar, Mamush diligently saved up funds, gradually amassing a substantial sum that set the stage for a new culinary endeavour.

Ali shares, "Their paramount criteria for selecting a location was to distance themselves from the epicenter of the city's criminal world. Matunga, back in those days, marked the terminus for trams traversing Mumbai." Fate played its part when Koolar stumbled upon a property located at the heart of King Cross Cafe, a space that he transformed into a labour of passion.

In 1932, the establishment was born under the name "King George's Cafe," a name that would eventually change into the cherished identity of Koolar & Co. following India's triumphant stride into independence.

Bringing Irani flavours to Mumbai's food palette

"We don't compromise on the food. Butter will never be substituted with margarine, and a plate of kheema will always pack a kilo of meat in it," says 52-year-old Amir, proudly. "The food we serve is as authentic Parsi food as you will ever find. Even our cooks have been around for several decades."

Amir asserts that the cafe's menu retains its aspiration to feed the urban middle class with nourishment. This mission is not far from reality - a single encounter with their protein-rich offerings serves as an affirmation. Take, for instance, the Wrestler Omelette, aptly named and brimming with the goodness of five eggs. It's an endorsement cherished by some of the city's finest bodybuilders, including fitness luminary Kaizaad Kapadia.

Indulging in the Chicken Egg Omelette becomes a delight, and the revered status of their Kheema Pav is well-deserved. The Brun Pao, larger and more substantial than the conventional Mumbai pao, meets its match when immersed in a glass of authentic Irani chai, leading to a delicious symphony of culinary pleasures.

But let's not forget the Honey Egg - a dish that defies cliches and, in all honesty, "blows your mind." Several popular diners might find it a challenge to conquer these delights, and the price tag of a mere Rs. 300 adds to their novelty. Yet, Koolar & Co.'s legendary status isn't solely defined by its affordable prices.

Dipping into Mumbai's culinary heritage, the 1950s saw the city's cafes plagued by an ill-found practice of segregating customers based on their caste and religious backgrounds. Zafar Ali Koolar, the elder brother of Mamush, emerged as a champion against this blatant discrimination. He valiantly served all patrons equally and even took the fight to the courts.

This wasn't the family's lone battle, however. Amir recalls, "There was a phase when our tea gained such renown that rivals propagated a baseless rumor of us adding eggs to our milk. Scientifically impossible, as eggs curdle milk. Despite this absurd notion lingering for a while, it eventually dissipated, allowing us to persevere."

Outlining the migration of Iranians to India

Centuries after the initial influx of Zoroastrians, who would later be known as Parsis, arriving on the Gujarat shores between the 8th and 10th centuries, Iranians continued to migrate to India in intermittent waves. The undivided India shared a border with Iran, facilitating trade routes over time. The ancient Silk Route intersected with cities such as Yazd and Kerman.

Even in the 19th century, when India was under British colonial rule, the colonial power's influence extended to Persia, aiding the movement of people to port towns like Karachi and Bombay. Around 1846, the influential figure Imam Hasan Ali Shah Aga Khan, leader of the Nizari Ismaili Muslims, also chose to settle in Bombay.

"Beginning in the late 1700s," historian Simin Patel narrates, "small Zoroastrian family units embarked on migration from Persia. Driven by a need to escape the clutches of abduction, coerced conversion, and the grip of economic adversity, these families found refuge within Parsi households in Bombay. A substantial wave of migration ensued in 1871-72, coinciding with the devastating famine in Persia.

This calamity prompted Parsi communities across regions such as China, Pune, Surat, and Bombay, among others, to extend a helping hand. Financial assistance flowed through an Irani enterprise in Bombay named Godrez Mehrban & Co., ensuring the safe passage of those seeking refuge. The incoming families found solace as asylums were established in the city to accommodate and support the migrants."