15 August,2023 04:41 PM IST | Mumbai | Nascimento Pinto
Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar frequently visited Pritam restaurant in Dadar, which was not far from his home. Photo Courtesy: Pritam Da Dhaba
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Nestled in Dadar, Pritam Da Dhaba, now a culinary landmark, played an unsung but pivotal role in the freedom movement. Established in 1942 during the Quit India Movement, the eatery became a hub for freedom fighters, including Dr. B.R. Ambedkar. Its strategic location near transport hubs made it a natural gathering place for those advocating for independence.
"Dr BR Ambedkar lived just 500 metres away and was frequently seen enjoying tea or holding discussions with his companions at Pritam," recounts Gurbaxish Singh Kohli, affectionately known as Gogi, and a third-generation member of the family running Pritam Da Dhaba, situated in Dadar.
"Dadar held a central role as a pivotal point, facilitating entry and exit from the city, as well as travel to various destinations within Mumbai. Pritam, being the sole eatery open round the clock, naturally evolved into a gathering spot for those championing freedoms during that era," Gogi adds.
Every year, Independence Day is celebrated on August 15 since 1947, and even as India celebrates its 77th year of independence, Mumbai is known to have played quite an important role in the freedom struggle leading to August 15, 1947. As Mumbaikars and Indians celebrate the freedom struggle, mid-day.com takes a walk down memory lane through the streets and establishments that witnessed it through the eyes.
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As Pritam Da Dhaba, which is today synonymous with Mumbai's culinary landscape was an instrumental aspect of the freedom struggle, Gogi says, "Pritam found itself at the centre of a busy transportation centre thanks to its advantageous location close to the Dadar tram station, close proximity to the General Post Office, and easy access to trains, trams, buses, and horse-drawn carriages." It was probably fate that brought the Kohli family to Dadar as the family narrates, and most Mumbaikars may know.
In 1942, Rawalpindi-based Prahlad Singh Kohli and his wife got off the train at Dadar railway station in search of a better life. It so happened that since they were hungry, they headed to a restaurant just outside the station, which was called Pritam Hindu Hotel. However, as Jaibir Kohli, Gogi's son, and fourth-generation member of the family managing the restaurant says his great-grandmother was extremely straightforward and didn't hesitate to voice her displeasure with the standard of the food supplied to the hotel. As any restaurant owner would, he challenged her to make better food and showcase her culinary skills. Being one to never back away, she took it up.
Jaibir Kohli says, "During this period, my great-grandfather engaged in a conversation with the proprietor where he expressed his desire to open a small restaurant. By the time my great-grandmother emerged from the kitchen with the prepared meal and it was placed before them, the owner inquired from my great-grandfather, âWhy don't you run this restaurant with me?'" They were offered to run it with him, and the rest is history. While senior Kohli travelled back and forth between Rawalpindi and Mumbai over the next five years, they decided to settle in Mumbai.
Not too long after that, his business partner decided to sell his stake in the eatery to Prahlad Singh Kohli. So, in 1947, the establishment became a privately held, family-run company. However, the family not only served food to Ambedkar but also helped many refugees at the restaurant. "During that period, numerous individuals from our hometown who were aware of our presence in Mumbai would seek us out, like a reassuring connection that people hold onto," Gogi Singh explains.
While the restaurant was a meeting point, his grandfather also housed them in a 300-square-foot kitchen area at his home in King's Circle. "My grandparents provided shelter and aid to whomever they could since they were burdened by the mental scars left behind by the partition. There were as many as 25 people staying there at one point. We have maintained that unique space as a remembrance of those times," he shares.
Today, Jaibir Kohli, fourth-generation member of the family runs the restaurant along with his father Gurbaxish Singh Kohli. Photo Courtesy: Pritam Da Dhaba
Beyond Dadar
Elsewhere in the city, Bharat Gothoskar, founder of Khaki Tours, which hosts heritage walks around the city, says there are several fascinating historical locations in Mumbai, that were instrumental in the freedom movement, beyond what people know. "Most people believe that the Dandi March happened in Dandi - where Gandhiji started walking from the Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad to Dandi near Surat, but what people don't realise is that simultaneously there were multiple Dandi marches." Since salt was very important in Mumbai, Gothoskar says, at various locations like Juhu beach, Chowpatty, Congress House, and Wadala - at one point in time all these places had salt pans. So, the protests happened there because people made salt there and sold it as a mark of protest and support with the Dandi march."
The other aspect of the freedom struggle, he says, was the call for Swadeshi, which was started as Bombay Swadeshi, by Lokmanya Tilak, and taken forward by Gandhiji. "French Bridge, which is near Chowpatty, and the lane opposite Royal Opera House, was a very popular venue where people would burn clothes," he shares. Towards Dadar, where Indiabulls One stands today, was another protest venue during the Independence movement.
Popularly, for Mumbaikars, who are not history buffs but frequently visit Chowpatty in Girgaum, should know that they are standing at a venue that witnessed many sabhas held by the Congress. He further adds, "Since there was a paucity of venues for open sabhas, it became a popular venue for them. There is also a place where Lokmanya Tilak was cremated after his death, and the baton passed from him to Gandhi, as the main leader of Independence." Not too far away, Gothoskar says, was Kennedy Bridge, which was situated near Congress House, the headquarters of the party.
He shares, "A lot of meetings would take place here. Just near it is also the Jinnah's People's Hall dedicated to the Father of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. At that time, Mumbaikars paid as much as Rs 65, 000 to build a hall in his name." Even Veer Savarkar stayed in Mumbai for a long time in Shivaji Park, and many people don't know that. It was during this time that Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose came to meet him. "When you look at Shivaji Park today, not many people may look at it as a place of national importance, but this is what it was," he adds.
Even near the Gateway of India, there is a plaque to the left, which says that Mahatma Gandhi landed there when he came from South Africa. "So, you have to just look around and you will find these places because there are many like this," he adds. Even as people know Mani Bhavan and August Kranti Maidan and their role in the Independence movement is known, Gothoskar says when better participation in governance was being called for, it was the students of Elphinstone College that participated in it. "Mahatma Gandhi called Mumbai "the beautiful" because it actually funded the Independence movement. The wealthy people in the city including textile merchants and manufacturers supported Gandhi. So, had it not been the wealth of Mumbai, it wouldn't have gained that kind of traction?"
Last but not least, Love Lane in Byculla houses Khilafat House, which was the root of the Khilafat Movement, between 1919 and 1922. It was started by Maulana Mohammad Ali, after whom Mohammad Ali was named. Everybody goes there during Ramzan to eat food. "When the Khalifa in Turkey was removed from power, Indian Muslims were protesting that it should be restored for all Muslims. So, Mahatma Gandhi realised that if he supported the movement, the Muslims will come into the wider fold of the independence movement."
Gothoskar says it was during this time that Gandhiji participated in the processions of the movement. "However, it is only a footnote in our history, and we don't realise that a physical manifestation of the Khilafat movement survives in Mumbai," shares the Mumbaikar, who covers the location as part of his Azad Hind Walk for adults, and Freedom 4 Kids walk for children once every month, which is around August Kranti Maidan. It is only one of the other walks that the Khaki Tours, which was founded over eight years ago in 2015, conducts to inform Mumbaikars about Mumbai's contribution to the independence movement.
The entire journey of Ambedkar is not possible without Mumbai, where he had several residences at different points of time. He even studied in Mumbai, before going abroad for further studies. "He was one of the people to draft the Constitution of India, and it was put together in Mumbai at the place which today has Punjab Grill in Kala Ghoda. Earlier, it used to be Wayside Inn." Not many Mumbaikars know, but the BMC entrance is where Subhash Chandra Bose gave a talk, and Azad Maidan is where Mahatma Gandhi gave many talks. "So, you look at each and every place in South Mumbai and it cries of Mumbai's contribution to the Independence movement. For us in our minds, the independence movement is something that happened in Bengal, Punjab and north India," concludes the history buff.