It’s 4/20 time: Why are hemp-based lifestyle products gaining traction in India?

For Riya Agarwal, a media professional from Kanpur who, like several others, experienced greater levels of stress and anxiety during the pandemic, cannabidiol (CBD) oil - one of the cannabinoid compounds derived from the cannabis plant - helped manage variations in mood and cope with the conditions affecting her mental health. "I felt comforted and calmer without relying on any other Ayurvedic extracts. I was able to carry out my day-to-day activities with a better state of mind without feeling any kind of addiction and was able to quit after one year," she says.

There is more to the plant cannabis sativa than its psychoactive properties. In recent years, hemp or industrial hemp - a class of cannabis containing less than 0.3 percent of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the compound responsible for triggering the ‘high state' - is widely used in the field of health, wellness and lifestyle products. According to certain research studies, CBD is non-psychoactive and CBD oil is extracted from hemp or industrial hemp, strictly grown for medicinal and other industrial usage, which is considered legal.

In 2020 the global cannabidiol market size was valued at USD 2.8 billion and is expected to grow further according to market research report by Grand View Research . The report states that the demand for CBD for health and wellness purposes is high due to its healing properties and is a major factor driving market growth. The rising acceptance and government nod in several countries have further boosted the production of CBD-infused products.

Dr Shraddha Deshpande, consultant plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgeon at Mumbai's Wockhardt Hospital, says that due to its plant-based properties, hemp is generating greater interest among skin care and wellness experts alike. The presence of gamma linolenic acid, an essential fatty acid, helps in retaining moisture, soothing the skin and in decreasing inflammation. Owing to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, it has shown to be useful in decreasing stress, chronic pain and anxiety.

In addition to its nutritional and therapeutic benefits, Chirag Teckchandaney, co-founder of the Bombay Hemp Company (BOHECO) -- an agro-based enterprise focusing on hemp-based lifestyle products and fabrics -- elucidates on the remedial properties of the crop. He says it paves the way for sustainable agriculture and hemp fibre is a better alternative to other premiere eco-friendly fabrics.

Hemp for holistic health

"Initially I was apprehensive about using CBD fearing addiction, but it provided an alternative method of handling stress. There is a lot of misconception around the usage of hemp due to cannabis' psychotropic properties, but people need to be educated about it," says Agarwal, who was first introduced to CBD oil, pills and other products when she was travelling outside India.

CBD oil and hemp hearts or seeds and powder for nutrition by India Hemp Organics. The cost of skin care and nutrition products ranges between Rs 300 and Rs 1000, while those of wellness cost over Rs 2500. Image credit: Rohit Kamath

In India, under the Narcotic Drugs and Psychotropic Substances Act 1985, state governments are permitted to make rules for licensing the cultivation of cannabis for medicinal and scientific purposes. In 2018, Uttarakhand became the first Indian state to allow commercial cultivation of industrial hemp. A number of companies today source hemp from the Himalayan region through nodal agencies and sources.

According to Grand View Research, hemp-derived CBD is expected to grow at a CAGR of 23.4 percent post-pandemic owing to increasing demand from the pharmaceutical sector and rising awareness among consumers regarding health. Several seed- and leaf-based products are essentially available in the form of oils, protein powder and seeds (hemp hearts) online and are categorised under nutrition for immunity boosting, wellness for pain management and personal care for skin and hair health. From improving metabolism, acting as a stress buster, enhancing sleep cycle, managing physical pain to nourishing skin and hair, hemp is considered as a wholesome ingredient for holistic care of the mind and body.

However, Deshpande adds a word of caution, "There is not enough evidence-based clinical research to prove the effectiveness of hemp-based products. It is therefore advisable to use it with caution. Due to varying concentrations of the ingredient in various products, it may show certain side effects, especially in patients suffering from other ailments."

It is important to note that one cannot use stress and pain management products without a medical prescription. The companies have their own panel of medical practitioners who can be consulted before going in for a product. Tekchandaney says, "Understanding a patient's history is primary before giving them a prescription. There is a system of self-regulation to capture enough data and check the validity of the prescription."

In recent years, a number of start-ups have begun tapping into the potential of this abundant natural resource having a history of usage as a medicinal plant in the rural and hilly regions, especially the Himalayan region. This has also initiated research undertakings to study the goodness of hemp in various sectors.

"The response for hemp-based products has seen a significant rise in the past couple of years. The breakthroughs in medical science have established cannabinoid based treatments as effective, safe and reliable. There is also a lot of education around the de-stigmatisation of cannabis, which drives consumer awareness," says Rohit Kamath, co-founder and director, India Hemp Organics, which specialises in hemp-based health and wellness products.

Wear it on your sleeves

In addition to health and wellness products, hemp clothing is an emerging experimentation seamlessly blending fashion and sustainability. BOHECO's B-Label has pioneered into the clothing sector by providing 100 percent hemp and hemp-blended fabrics and clothes to a rising group of consumers, who are inclined towards sustainable lifestyle choices.

Hemp-blended cushion covers and laptop covers (right) by BOHECO. The cost of hemp and hemp-blended clothes and accessories ranges between 1K to 3K. Image credit: Chirag Tekchandaney

"Once you start to wear hemp fabric you will not like to wear any other fabric. Hemp is like an iceberg, we have so far discovered only the tip of it. I feel we should make people aware of its benefits and not think hemp as only ‘bhaang'," says Bhupesh Shah, a Mumbai-based businessman, who started using hemp products and clothes when he adopted veganism four years back.

According to Tekchandaney, the characteristics of hemp fibre, which give hemp an edge over other sustainable materials like cotton, lyocell, tencel and linen, are that it ages well and has greater tensile strength than cotton or other sustainable fabrics. Its UV resistant and anti-microbial properties make it a preferable choice for inclusion in summertime wardrobes. Moreover, its organic origins, lower use of water, less creasing, relative comfort and hypoallergenic properties further make it a preferred alternative to fast fashion.

From button-down hemp shirts, casual dresses, pants and trendy co-ords to accessories such as stoles, those looking for subtle yet stylish, casual and formal wearables are checking out hemp fabrics. Additionally, Tekchandaney states, unlike premium sustainable fabrics, hemp fabrics are currently available at a price point which will enable people to allot at least 10 percent of their wardrobe for hemp clothes. This also helps companies establish a perennial customer base and further educate people about hemp.

Growing acceptance

With an increasing number of younger people and older adults between the age groups of 25 to 40 years and 40 to 75 years using hemp-based products for stress and pain management, Kamath says, "We see the market in India growing at a rapid scale and believe that India is probably the largest untapped cannabis market in the world."

According to the Grand View Research report, the global cannabidiol market size is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate of 21.2 percent from 2021 to 2028. With China producing nearly half of the world's hemp and being the largest hemp cultivator in Asia, the Asia Pacific market is anticipated to witness the fastest growth over the forecast period owing to the rising setup of hemp-producing plants and growth in demand for the products in countries like India.

Compared to 2013, when BOHECO was the premiere standalone company exploring hemp's properties, there are almost 80 businesses in the field today. Tekchandaney says the hemp industry is going to flourish ten years down the line, with its own dangers of being commoditised and turning exploitative. While it is already a billion dollar industry at a global level, a boost in demand and government partnerships for research and cultivation will expand the scope in India too.

"The growing awareness is due to the medical benefits of hemp and cannabis. There have been several research studies that suggest the efficacy of cannabis based treatments. There is also a growing awareness of the usage of hemp globally, and various patient testimonials that have created a movement for legalisation," says Kamath.

With sustainability emerging as a mainstream trend alongside genuine concerns for the environment, hemp provides an attractive offering for those widely educated about sustainable or eco-friendly living. Further, social media discussions on hemp have added to the educational content on the plant's medicinal and therapeutic benefits.

Though a product still consumed mainly by the affluent sections of society who have travelled abroad, have acquired knowledge of the plant and those who aspire to go ecologically friendly in the future, Tekchandaney says, "The purpose is to educate everyone in the system about the ergonomics of hemp in terms of sustainability and to change the stereotypical notions attached to hemp and its singular association with pop culture."