Happy Onam: Mumbai’s Keralites will bring in the harvest festival with intimate feasts

Onam is a harvest-time occasion which celebrates the return of King Mahabali, who was known to be kind even though he was a demon. Its main feature is the sadya feast. Photo: Sarada Krishnan

The pandemic has changed the way people celebrate festivals, especially in India where food and festivities aren't limited to family but often extend to friends, neighbours and even distant relatives. Many Mumbaikars from the Muslim community recently spent Eid al-Adha with their immediate family, and it is not going to be any different for Keralites, who will be celebrating Onam on August 21. The city's Malayalis, whose origins lie in the southern state of Kerala, will be making the most of the harvest festival with intimate gatherings rather than meeting in large groups.

City-based publicist Megha Nambootiri, who has been missing the experience of dining outside, is happy that the restaurants in the city are now open. She explains, "Since the restaurants are now open, we might go to 'Taste of Malabar' in Fort and have a sadya with the family. Last year we celebrated at home, I had prepared sadya and invited my parents over in a very intimate setting."

Onam is a harvest-time occasion which celebrates the return of King Mahabali, who was known to be kind even though he was a demon. Its main feature is the sadya feast, traditionally eaten on the banana leaf, elaborate versions of which can comprise more than 30 dishes. Nambootiri had spent over six hours in the kitchen last year preparing dishes including vegetable thoran, parippu dal, pachdi, inchi curry, sambar and rasam. "Every year we used to gather with our extended family to have a fun get-together. But for the last year and a half, it's been difficult. Festivals are no fun if you can't meet your favourite cousins." While she will be celebrating with family, the publicist does miss large celebrations but she is looking at the bright side of smaller family gatherings. "These close settings have definitely brought the family closer."

City-based communications professional Nishad Neelambaran is similarly focusing on the silver lining, even if he will not be able to participate in the annual celebration in his hometown in Kerala. For Neelambaran, the occasion will be further special as it is his first Onam after getting married earlier this year. He explains, "Since my wife is a Mangalorean, she is excited to see and enjoy the culture of a neighbouring state. Even though we are missing out on celebrating it with our family in Kerala, we are making sure that the essence of the festival isn't lost. We are preparing the traditional Onam sadya and will make the traditional pookalam (floor pattern) with flowers."

Instead of visiting relatives in the city, the 29-year-old and his wife will spend the morning preparing the sadya, which on an average has as many as 10 to 12 dishes, before they feast on it later in the day.

Even in intimate settings, the families still plan to fancy up in traditional attire. While the women will wear the kasavu sari (white with gold border), the men will don a kasavu mundu and shirt for the occasion, so that they can click pictures to cherish a happy memory during these difficult times.

Like Nambootiri who is looking forward to stepping out for lunch and Neelambaran who will spend his first post-nuptial Onam cooking with his wife, Sujith Sudhakaran is going to find happiness in food. "Onam is one festival that holds a special place in every Malayali's heart. Usually, we celebrate it with my whole family, but due to the pandemic, my brothers, who are not in the country, will not be making it home this year," says Sudhakaran. "The festive feeling will surely not be complete without our whole family, but the Onam sadya compensates for that."

The St Regis Mumbai Onam sadya will include dishes such as sadya manga achar, kaya varatha, sarkkara varatiyatu, Malabar kadala curry. Photo: St Regis Mumbai

If you want to order in for Onam, here are a few options to choose from:

Traditional feast
City-based home chef Sarada Krishnan, who hails from Palakkad, is dishing out an elaborate sadya featuring as many as 19 dishes including mozhukuvarattai, mixed vegetable thoran, avial, pal ada pradhaman payasam and parappu payasam. Diners can place their orders one day prior for delivery within Mumbai and Navi Mumbai.

Price: Rs 999 plus delivery charges
Call: 9967090022

Delicious delights
Indulge in the festivities with an Onam sadya from The St Regis Mumbai, which will include the likes of sadya manga achar (mango pickle), kaya varatha (banana chips), sarkkara varatiyatu, Malabar kadala curry and more. End your meal at home with ada pradaman and semiya payasam which are a part of the desserts for the festival.

When: August 20 - August 22
Price: Rs 2,250 plus taxes
Call: 86575 22956/022 61628422/022 61628000

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