Funchowza to dragon dance: How Mumbai’s Chinese community brings in the new year

In the last few days leading up to Chinese New Year, Dr Nupur Yi Shetty has been busy making Funchowza, a traditional Chinese fried snack, that she says is more like a Chinese shankarpali. She shares, "It is similar to how we make sweets during Diwali. 'Fun' means to 'turn around to the New Year' in Hubei, the language spoken by us Cantonese people. The whole family gets together to prepare this in my home in large quantities."

It is one of the few traditional dishes that the Chinese community in Mumbai makes to celebrate the festival along with many other delicacies. Nupur is half-Chinese and half-Maharashtrian, and has further married her husband, who is a Shetty. Through all these changes, she has retained her Chinese origins and culture and carried it forward in her home, where they celebrate different kinds of festivals.

Annual traditions
Once a year, her Chinese family comes together to celebrate the New Year, which is one of their most important festivals. This year will be no different as she makes her way from Thane to the other side of town on New Year's Eve on February 9, followed by the Chinese New Year, which is the ‘Year of the Dragon', on February 10. The Chinese community in Mumbai is dwindling in numbers with only 4,000 people reportedly being of Chinese-origin. However, every year the close-knit members come to celebrate the new year at the only known Chinese temple Kwan Tai Kung, in Mumbai in Mazgaon's Dockyard Road. "There will be a dragon dance performance where they beat the drums around midnight by a troupe that travels from Andheri I believe. After which, we will burn paper money for our ancestors when we go to the temple in the morning, and then visit the graveyard in Wadala at Antop Hill," shares Dr Steve Yi, Nupur's cousin who also lives in Thane. "Since we don't have idol worship and worship our ancestors, before dinner, we burn golden paper money and incense sticks, and the food and wine is kept as an offering to send to the dead."

Every year, come what may, at least 27 members of the Yi family meet in Mumbai on the occasion, as they travel from different parts of the city and all over the world like the US and Japan to celebrate. Steve adds, "Every year, the lunch is at a different family member's house. It has a variety of beef, pork, chicken, mutton and prawn dishes like pork roast, chicken or mutton soup, glass noodles, seaweed that the family members help to make and are enjoyed by all." This year, they will be meeting at a cousin's home in Vashi to celebrate the festival, which technically goes on for 15 days more, but usually ends for them this weekend; the dishes for meal are brought by each person as it is a potluck.

During the celebrations, Nupur says there will be as many as 18-20 dishes that are made. "These are not evolved versions of Chinese dishes. They are all authentic dishes and not the kind that is popularly found in the restaurants," says Nupur, continuing, "My favourite dish is one with mixed vegetables and pork sausages, sourced from Kolkata." The family meal is also her most cherished memory of the festival, while she was growing up.

Interestingly, Thane-based Steve narrates that their grandfather, who was a doctor, came to Mumbai from the Hubei province in China in the 1930s, when the revolution was on, and happened to meet a Japanese dentist in Kalyan. During the Second World War, when the latter had to go back to Japan, their grandfather rented the premises and ran his practice from there and resided in the same building before moving to Bhiwandi after marriage. Eventually, most members of the Yi family also became doctors with Steve and Nupur being among two of 24 of them.

Even as the Yis have married within and outside of the community, they make every effort to retain their culture in their daily life, and much of it has to do with practicing the rituals they hold dear along with making the different unique delicacies. "We don't usually buy our ingredients for the dishes from here. We source it from Hong Kong or the US as our relatives are there, and all of these ingredients are dehydrated. Earlier, we used to source it from Kolkata but not anymore," adds 63-year-old Steve, who like his father married a member from the Chinese community in Mumbai. On the other hand, his son have married women from the community in Gorakhpur.

Giving Mumbai its Chinese food
Elsewhere in the city, chef Huang Te Sing's parents moved from Kolkata to Mumbai in 1967 seeking new opportunities amid a vibrant culture landscape. At the time, Huang was only six years old, and it was probably his first introduction to the city, as his father found a job as a chef. He reminisces, "Initially, my father worked as a chef at 'Sea Hai,' a renowned Chinese restaurant located in Colaba Causeway. Later, he transitioned to 'Kamling Chinese Restaurant', a highly esteemed establishment in Churchgate, where he worked. The city's bustling energy and endless possibilities captivated us, prompting us to make it our new home."

Almost immediately, they embraced the vibrant Chinese culture and traditions and celebrated the festivals. He shares, "I studied in a Chinese school in Mumbai for a few years until its closure due to low enrollment. Over the years, I have strived to maintain the essence of my Chinese culture and traditions while also embracing the diverse influences of Mumbai." Soon enough, he was also attracted to food and became a chef, and has been at the helm of Oriental Blossom at Hotel Marine Plaza for close to three decades. "While some aspects have evolved to adapt to the local palate and culinary trends, the core principles of Chinese cuisine and culture remain integral to my cooking and personal life," he adds.

Like many other members of the Chinese community, even Huang will celebrate Chinese New Year by visiting the temple in Mazgaon to pray, followed by honouring his ancestors at home with offerings of food and drinks. "On New Year's Day, we extend well wishes to family, neighbours, and friends, often giving red envelopes containing money to children and youngsters. It is also a time for outings, movies, and enjoying quality time together," adds the Mumbaikar, who has called Mumbai his home for more than 58 years now.

This confluence of cultures has also led him to curate a special set menu at the restaurant for the occasion and includes a variety of dishes that are also the kind that are made in a typical Chinese home in Mumbai. He explains, "Dishes like the Chicken and Prawns Prosperity New Year Soup and Lobster with Cashews in Kung Pao Sauce hold special significance, representing abundance, prosperity, and good fortune. These traditional elements have been cherished for generations and continue to be an essential part of the Chinese New Year feast." If there is one thing Huang is happy about, it is how he has been able to share his passion for Chinese food with the people of Mumbai and beyond.

While Huang lent his expertise and moulded Chinese cuisine in Mumbai, the Tham family has been equally instrumental in shaping the culinary culture of Chinese and Asian food in Mumbai. Keenan Tham, managing director and co-founder of Pebble Street Hospitality in Mumbai is the third generation carrying forward the legacy opening up quite a few restaurants over the years including Foo and KOKO along with his brother Ryan Tham. He narrates, "It began with my great grandfather who ventured from China to India. Seeking better prospects, my grandfather moved from Calcutta to Mumbai, where he established a successful salon and restaurant chain. My father was born here in India, continuing the legacy in this vibrant country."

Over the years, they have actively celebrated Chinese New Year, even as their family's traditions have evolved, they are still preserving our Chinese heritage. He shares, "We continue to honour our roots by gathering annually on Chinese New Year. This special occasion brings our entire family together to enjoy traditional Chinese delicacies and celebrate. Our festivities have adapted over the years, and now we make it a tradition to celebrate at KOKO, where the chef crafts a diverse array of dishes specifically for the occasion, ensuring that each meal is a fitting tribute to our cultural celebration." This year, Tham says, they will be celebrating by coming together for lunch at Foo Bandra.

So, what are some of the signature dishes that feature during their celebrations? He explains, "At our gatherings, signature dishes like steamed whole fish, char siu bao, roast pork, and Cantonese noodles are always a highlight on the table." Alongside these culinary delights, Tham says the family ensures that they have mandarins and incense sticks to keep the tradition alive. "The customary practice of giving hóngbāo (red envelopes) to the younger generation persists, offering gifts or sweets as tokens of blessings and goodwill," he adds.

Just like every other community in Mumbai, Tham says even many from the Chinese community have evolved to take up occupations beyond the salons, restaurants and dentistry and that he feels reflects how much they have integrated into Mumbai's culture. One thing that they have learned along the way has been hospitality. "During our upbringing, our grandfather and father ensured we spent ample time at the family restaurants. It was an enriching experience as our father actively involved us in various aspects of the business - from kitchen operations to cashier duties and guest interactions. Hospitality became ingrained in us from a young age, we learned to prioritise serving our guests generously, gaining insights into the nuances of authentic Chinese cuisine versus imitations. This legacy is now deeply embedded within us," he concludes.