Weaves from the heart of India

A kurta from Kishmish paired with a stole from WomenWeave

This week, WomenWeave (WW), the 200-women strong NGO, will bring handloom weavers from three parts of rural Madhya Pradesh to Mumbai for a unique collaborative venture. At the exhibition titled two-Together, at ARTISANS in Kala Ghoda, you will be able to pick single-coloured kurtis (or kurtas) in handspun fabrics and match them with soft stoles in vibrant shades. The exhibition will feature tribal weaves from Dindori; traditional weavers from Warashivni, Balaghat; and the now-famous women weavers of Gudi Mudi.

The traditional Garbhareshmi saree from Maheshwar

Weave logic
"We started the organisation in 2003. Our focus is the traditional cotton-growing areas on the banks of the Narmada where we engage women to spin and weave local cotton. We are working with young designers who can train local weavers. We also work in the heartland of Madhya Pradesh, with tribal weavers who have no roads, no electricity and no running water, but who sell to more than 25 countries globally through the WomenWeave network," says founder, Sally Holkar, adding that a percentage of sales contributes to health, education, and savings programmes for all weavers and staff at WW.

Balaghat fabric in off white

The highlight of the WomenWeave collection is the revival of Garbhareshmi sarees, a timeless silk cotton weave unique to Maheshwar. "These sarees involve a traditional preparation, a technique known to a few old women in Maheshwar who refuse to teach it to anyone or reveal it to us," says Holkar. The Garbhareshmi sarees were worn by the women in the royal court during the time of Ahilyabai Holkar. They're a unique blend of silk and cotton. "The traditional designs include ones of the rui phool as it is found in the area, borders inspired by stonework found in the ghats around Maheshwar in the 17th and 18th century," she adds.

A stole from Dindori

Expect to find ultra-fine handspun cotton, shining silk, matte khadi, and naturally crinkled blends of wool, silk and organic khadi. In addition, students of The Handloom School, WomenWeave's new project, have developed multi-treadle fabrics in cotton, silk, wool and linen in colours like rustic neutrals, greys, soft aqua, rusty pinks to pretty corals.

It takes two
Rekha Bhatia, founder of Kishmish, is also on the board of directors for WomenWeave. "This is the third exhibition that Kishmish is doing with WomenWeave. The exhibitions are interactive as people mix, match, try combinations and create their own styles. WomenWeave makes some great stoles which go well with our top and kurtas," says Bhatia.

Bhatia adds that people are moving away from natural fabrics and are completely disconnected from what is happening in the rural sector. "We created Kishmish to design easy, comfortable clothing and textiles with a simple, stylish aesthetic. The cotton, silk and linen fabrics are natural, handwoven, and pre-washed to ensure softness. In a world overwhelmed by technology, we hope to preserve the tradition of handmade textiles and finely-tailored clothing. Our products support the livelihood of rural Indian craftsmen," says Bhatia adding that this collection will feature many weaves from the south.