Acclaimed Belgian designer Dries Van Noten's oft quoted, Look at the past, but don't get nostalgic, found suitable takers in Dev R Nil's approach to ultra-cool clothes with universal appeal.
The designers:u00a0Dev R Nil
Acclaimed Belgian designer Dries Van Noten's oft quoted, "Look at the past, but don't get nostalgic," found suitable takers in Dev R Nil's approach to ultra-cool clothes with universal appeal. With a design-studio address paying tribute to Kolkata's archetypal address Howrah and a collection haunted by Satyajit Ray's 1964 release Charulata (The Lonely Wife), viewing the world through her opera glasses, the designer duo interpreted the raring-to-go attitude of a new, modern Bengal on to versatile garments.
Charulata's lingering loneliness was almost tangible in the models' smudged make-up, tousled hairdo, all revealed at an unhurried pace. Hundreds of twinkling, multicoloured light bulbs encircled the drab runway, that hosted the 41-outfit procession collectively inspired by Dutch artist MC Escher's architectural accuracy, in iridescent blacks and whites, scarlet reds and Persian Indigo.u00a0u00a0u00a0
Thankfully, the designers' sense of discipline kept the focus on indulgent techniques: cutwork, appliquu00c3u00a9, threadwork, beadwork, Batik, pleating, surface texturing, leaving simpler jerseys, cotton silks, georgettes and silk tweeds to orchestrate a steady quasi-chic rhythm. Occasion-wear options ranged from a georgette saree with a block flower emb, a red cutwork saree juxtaposed with striking Indigo and a black chequered saree all united in theme but individual in treatment. Dress styles sported cowl and Egyptian necklines.
The innovative use of Batik as a print to create images of flocking birds, added a sense of laidback polish to drab menswear alternatives, especially trousers, jumpsuits, jackets and tees.