19 August,2009 09:30 AM IST | | Shweta Shiware
In a new series, we let the style conscious find solutions to their nagging fashion doubts in the company of india's best known designers.u00a0FYI arranges for brand manager Akshay Dalal to meet leather designer Dilip Kapur, on tips to tell genuine leather from fake, and picking belts and bags to match his shape
Akshay's teen sawaal for Dilip Kapur
Does a wallet made from soft leather ensure durability?
You should never buy wallets made from super soft leather. They get crushed easily while you slip them in and out of your pocket. The shape collapses over time.
Is uneven, wrinkled leather a sign of bad leather?
Leather should always look natural. Leather treated with vegetable tanning is preferred since it feeds the leather, and helps it age well. While buying leather, make sure you feel it. Uneven bumps, colour and texture are signs of genuine leather.
Apart from texture, what else do I need to look out for?
The stitching. It needs to be straight, neat and uniform without any gaps. The seams should be firmly attached. Open the bag to check finishing details. The stitching holds together various functional components such as the bottom feet, shoulder straps, handles, zipper pulls and pockets. The high stress areas should be reinforced with extra stitching or rivets.
The messenger bag
As the name suggests, these were first used by postal staff. Today, it's a style favoured by the man-about-town, from the CEO to the management trainee, thanks to its form and functionality.u00a0
>>Check for water-resistant features. All leather messenger bags feature a large flap over the front. The best pieces also zip up inside to prevent water from getting in. Any exposed pockets under the flap should also zip, snap or velcro shut.
>>In a bid to make handsome bags, some manufacturers let go of pockets or flaps, to make space for just one cavernous storage area. Bad idea. You end up stuffing the bag, leaving it looking deformed.
>>Choose one expandable leather messenger bag which has designated space for your mobile phone, iPod, calling cards. Some bags even accommodate a zipper around the outside; unzipping it allows it to expand a few inches.
>>Some bags can be adapted to carry a laptop safely. If you carry one, look for this feature.
>>Ensure the leather Messenger bag has a sturdy strap. Check the strap liner. A liner is made from canvas or leather. If it isn't of good quality, you run the risk of allowing colour to bleed on to your shoulder/chest.
The sling bag
For lack of a better term, this is called the Male Purse. The shoulder strap might make it similar to the Messenger bag, but it's important to remember that the two are as different as chalk from cheese. Sling bags are smaller and vertical in shape.
Quit stuffing everything from your phone, keys to your wallet and cards into your pants. Slip it all in here. This is a good option to carry on your day off from work.
The briefcase
Once considered a standard in business circles, this is going extinct amid trendy over-the-shoulder leather cases and padded computer bags.
>>Instead of investing in a sack, buy one that has expandable pockets, to put away extra items.
>>Remove the padding and hoist the bag on a table to check if it's lopsided.
>>Look for features that will come handy: a padded laptop compartment, pockets to keep business cards, your mobile phone, and a detachable strap.
Bag to watch out for
Dilip says the current trend is a reverse one, with Women influencing men's fashion. This shape, inspired by the Japanese idea of clean, simple lines, will take a while to catch on thanks to its vertical shape and unconventional handles. Even in America, it will be tough to sell it to a guy, unless it's San Francisco.
5-point guide to spotting a duplicate
>>Check the edges around the insides. Real leather has a rough look and feel along the edges, while fake leather will feel like foam or plastic to the touch.
>>Move your hands over the leather; genuine leather will be coarse to silky smooth, and have inconsistent texture.
>>Check the pores of the leather. Natural skin will have irregular pores while fake leather will have neatly patterned pores.
>>Check the stitching on underside and inside pockets. Sloppy or inconsistent stitching are dead giveaways.
>>Simple and stiff construction are first signs of fake leather.
Choosing a bag to match your shape
>>Short men should opt for a smaller bag.
>>Slim men should carry their bag as close to the body as possible. A cross body bag is your safest bet.
big and round men must buy one that compliments their size.
HOT TIP: Don't buy a bag that makes you stand out in a crowd. Leave that to women. Make sure it's functional and quietly stylish.
Getting Stains off your Leather Handbag
It's a material to love, not abuse, just because it has a mythical sturdiness.
>>Water is the biggest villain. If wet, allow the bag to dry naturally, keeping it away from sun or artificial heat sources.
>>To get rid of sticky chewing gum stains, stock ice cubes in a plastic bag and rub it against the gum. This hardens the gum, making it easy to peel off.
>>Concoct a mixture (3 parts vinegar to 1 part water) and rub it on salt stains, using a cloth.
>>Ink is a tough stain to remove, but sometimes spraying it with hair spray, and quickly wiping it off with a clean cloth, might do the job.
>>To get rid of discolouration, buy a leather spray that matches the colour of the bag, to help restore colour for a few months.
Wallets
The easiest trick to picking the right wallet is to focus on the mistakes you made while buying your current one.
By now, you know whether you need a big or medium wallet, if you need a separate credit card holder, or whether you can do away with that awful plastic photograph compartment.
>>Wallets are divided into tri-folded, bi-folded, and slim-folded.
>>Tri-folded ones (usually carried by college students in waterproof fabric), are available in leather too. These are the SUVs of wallets, with spacious sections for three side pockets, two pockets to hold currency, and space for 5 to 8 credit cards.
>>Bi-folded leather wallets are preferred by adult men. These include two pockets for cash, two insets exclusively reserved for plastic or one space for ID cards or room for loose change.
>>Slim-fold leather wallets are meant for those who have arrived in style town. They do away with the loose change section, and are meant for credit card and cash only.u00a0
>>Feel it to understand whether there's cardboard used to lend it stiffness.
>>To create insets for credits cards, manufacturers slit one piece of leather into three-four compartments. It's a sign of cheap craftsmanship. Each inset should be made from an individual piece of leather.
>>Use an extra-light shampoo to wipe it clean once a month, and let it dry completely, away from sunlight, before you slip it in your pocket.
Belts
A belt literally ties your outfit together. It's a make-or-break accessory for any man. And a gentleman's wardrobe is incomplete without a black, tan and brown belt.
>>The colour of your belt should match your shoes, not your clothes. But don't beat yourself silly over the exact shade. Just make sure it comes close.
>>A belt that sits on your natural waist can be a fabulous accessory, if chosen wisely. The skinny belt is great for short-waisted men. The shorter your torso, the narrower your belt should be. Then, it doesn't dominate your entire mid-section.
>>A medium-sized belt works well on all body types, especially on men with short torsos, who want the look of a wide belt, and those with long torsos who want the look of a skinny belt.
>>The texture (crocodile, ostrich or brogue) need not be a perfect match.
>>Woven and suede belts are meant for casual occasions. Team them with linen or denim jackets and tees. Stick to matching them with your shoes.
>>Formal belts should range between 2.5 cm and 3 cm, while casual ones can vary from 3 cm to 4 cm.
>>Insist on knowing whether the belt is from regenerated leather or genuine leather. The former has a lousy shelf life since it's made by grinding scraps of waste leather, with a tiny bit of natural rubber thrown in.
>>Unless you work in a Cowboy Club, stay away from chunky buckles. No logos either. Opt for slim, discrete, solid brass buckles.u00a0
