24 April,2009 10:46 AM IST | | Shweta Shiware
At the risk of inspiring every city to host a fashion week, Kolkata launched its own bi-annual style event, the fourth in a series spurred by warring factions in India's fashion industry. Shweta Shiware went, saw and returned to report: it takes more than Bengali beauties and the promise of buyers who don't show up, to put up a fashion event with repeat value
Main bhi showstopper Ex-sex siren to ex-Miss Universe's BF, everyone got to be a showstopper at KFW
The veteran designer duo that has been creating avante garde garments in Kantha for three decades, quietly introduced a few new clothing ideas wedged in pieces between signature style.u00a0u00a0
Style notes: Sarees remained the mainstay of the collection with sexy cholis worn over drape.
For any fashion editor who sees the Indian fashion industry as one body rather than an incoherent assembly of warring factions, news of the birth of yet another Fashion Week (India already has two, plus a couture week) is all but depressing; not only does it re-divide a fledgling industry, it grossly dilutes solidarity; whatever is left of it anyway.
But with the first Kolkata Fashion Week held between April 2 and 5, the individualistic ethnicity of its host state offered that nudge, read incentive, to be there. The thrill of viewing the unseen, of peeling off possibilities that promised to push the design envelope, of meeting the Bangla style shakers; all inspired by the theme, Return to Roots, and a focus on weavers and textiles of Bengal, made sure we were sold.
Despite the muggy weather, the daily struggle for elbow space in a stifling main show area created on a make-shift shamiana on open lawns (!), worsened by feeble air conditioning, and an overzealous crowd that turned up in strength to watch Bipasha Basu, KFW did manage to pack in a few worthwhile moments.
For starters
Expert hands put this event together. Sushma Puri and her Elite Team pulled in the finest belles of the ball, with two of the best teams Delhi-based Aparna and Tanya and Mumbai's Alison Kanuga taking charge of choreography.u00a0 The model line-up included Krishna Somani, Nayanika Chatterjee, Candice Pinto, Rachael, Sania Sheikh, Neha Kapur, Sonalika Sahay, Sapna Kumar, Sreshthaa Paul, Sanjukta Das and Bhavna Sharma. An elevated runway at the main show area was flanked by two giant AVs that introduced the designer-of-the-moment to the audience.u00a0u00a0u00a0
Designer roll call: Who turned up, who didn't?
Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Anamika Khanna, the two defining faces of Bengal fashion were missing, and missed by local media and participating designers who made sure they kept the digs about their absence, coming.
Outstation visitors Rohit Bal, Narendra Kumar, Wendell Rodricks, Bibi Russell, Zubair Kirmani, Gauri & Nainika, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Manoviraj Khosla shared spotlight with established natives Sharbari Dutta, Mona Pali, Anjana Bhargav, Soumitra Mondal and emerging lot Abhishek Dutta and Dev R Nil.u00a0
Chitrangada Singh for Cue
Style notes: Sharp simplicity met the capricious nature of vibrant hues, and abstract prints to celebrate the chirpy season of spring in Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna's collection titled, Ode to Joy.
Dino Morea for Sharbari Dutta
Dino's gelled hair and sultan-like goatee went well with the narrow pyjama and Bandgalau00a0 worn under a festive blue and gold Angarkha. We wish Lara Dutta's love interest had saved his killer smile for the audience, rather than for choreographer Alison Kanuga, who was captaining the show from the loft.u00a0
Wendell Rodricks for Wendell Rodricks
The Goan designer traded a showstopper for a striking piece of garment; a tropical-inspired turquoise lungi that he took a bow in. We thought it was a relaxed spin to stuffy metrosexuality
John Abraham for Rohit Bal
The mind behind some exquisite Indian wear is on a forced couture trip. Rohit Bal's fascination for the dark and dangerous continued with charcoal and plum shades giving sinister company to dramatic silhouettes.u00a0
Style notes: The designer toiled over complex techniques to resemble origami folds, and create honeycomb patterns.u00a0
Rituparno Ghosh for Abhishek Dutta. WHY!
Abhishek's intention was in place, but his design direction and confidence went astray. He packed in every possible cut and style in the book, leaving us to witness a cacophony of a collection. He was the only one to have not one, but two showstoppers Shonal Chauhan from Jannat, and filmmaker Rituparno Ghosh who came dressed in something close to drag.u00a0u00a0u00a0u00a0
Style notes: A combination of old world embroidery with modern Swarovski sparkle.
We wanted to say, Bonjour mademoiselle, until we realised "monsieur" was more apt.u00a0 Critically acclaimed Bengali filmmaker Rituparno Ghosh, who has lost an astonishing amount of weight, ditched his silk kurtas for cowled Jodhpuris, an embroidered jacket, painted nails and a string of black pearls.